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 ADVANCED
East Gate Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ankle Biters S 
Bloodline T 
Christopher of the Everglades T 
El Chollo T 
El Guapo T,S 
El Pipe Dream T 
El Segundo T 
Flakes, The T 
Gran Hermano T 
Keelhaul T 
Negro Modelo T 
Only Human Var. T 
Plasma T 
Sidewinder T 
Snowflakes T 
Stradler T 
To Air is Human T 
Wild Things T 
Unsorted Routes:

To Air is Human 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Pat Contor and Gary Taylor, 1988
Season: not the heat of summer
Page Views: 4,053
Submitted By: tenesmus on May 16, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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'Bout to pull the corner Andrew Burr Photography

The land is owned by the LDS Church; please be respectful of this. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Killer edge climbing with closely spaced bolts above a roof. Turn the corner and pull onto a red, crystalline slab for 3 bolts. Then a little gear in an easy crack and three more bolts up a perfect slab to the anchors of El Guapo.

Location 

Starts on the middle tier about 60 feet above the gear belay for Snowflakes/Plasma.

Protection 

bolts and on for two pieces in the finger size. a few long slings to reduce rope drag. You won't be able to hear each other at all so work it out beforehand. We had a 70m rope and just made it to that upper anchor. Two raps to the ground.


Photos of To Air is Human Slideshow Add Photo
Brandon heading onto the slab on To Air is Human 5...
Brandon heading onto the slab on To Air is Human 5...
Thank god for diorite Andrew Burr Photo
Thank god for diorite Andrew Burr Photo
Brandon heading onto the slab on To Air is Human 5...
Brandon heading onto the slab on To Air is Human 5...
The bolted traverse to the arete. Good holds but i...
The bolted traverse to the arete. Good holds but i...

Comments on To Air is Human Add Comment
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By mikewhite
May 16, 2010

4 5/16' buttonheads replaced this weekend, with 1/2" ss rawls.
I left the first bolt that was a rawl 5 piece with a good hanger.
The upper half was done years ago, so now all but one bolt is stamped asca.

Big thanks to Alexi for helping out.

This is a super sweet route.
Try it out.


Pics?
By drewford
From: Wasatch Back, UT
Jan 14, 2011

Woot Monkey!
By Eric Chabot
From: Thetford Ctr, VT
Sep 8, 2014

How runout/scary is the slab after turning the corner?
By Ryan Arnold
Sep 8, 2014
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

It's hard 10d slab climbing with 4-6 feet between bolts, followed by 5.9+ slab with 10-15 foot runouts. Long 65m pitch.... plan to not hear each other at the belays.