|East Gate Buttress
To Air is Human
|Type: ||Trad, 1 pitch, 200'|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]|
|FA: ||Pat Contor and Gary Taylor, 1988|
|Season: ||not the heat of summer|
|Page Views: ||3,243|
|Submitted By: ||tenesmus on May 16, 2008|
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'Bout to pull the corner
Andrew Burr Photography
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Killer edge climbing with closely spaced bolts above a roof. Turn the corner and pull onto a red, crystalline slab for 3 bolts. Then a little gear in an easy crack and three more bolts up a perfect slab to the anchors of El Guapo.
Starts on the middle tier about 60 feet above the gear belay for Snowflakes/Plasma.
bolts and on for two pieces in the finger size. a few long slings to reduce rope drag. You won't be able to hear each other at all so work it out beforehand. We had a 70m rope and just made it to that upper anchor. Two raps to the ground.
|Comments on To Air is Human
May 16, 2010
4 5/16' buttonheads replaced this weekend, with 1/2" ss rawls.
I left the first bolt that was a rawl 5 piece with a good hanger.
The upper half was done years ago, so now all but one bolt is stamped asca.
Big thanks to Alexi for helping out.
This is a super sweet route.
Try it out.
From: Wasatch Back, UT
Jan 14, 2011