|Type:||Trad, 2 pitches, 300'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]|
|Submitted By:||caughtinside on Jan 22, 2007|
|Comments on TM's Deviation||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Josh Cameron
Jul 17, 2011
|This climb will let you know if you're a chimney climber or not. More grueling than technical.|
Mar 26, 2013
|Hardest 5.9 I've ever flailed on!|
By Colonel Mustard
From: Reno, NV
Feb 19, 2014
The #5 C4 Camalot was clutch at the crux. Couldn't get a #6 in that spot and a #4 would be waaaay back there. It makes the crux light psychologically, but the moves took some sussing. Definitely my favorite wide crack at the Loaf so far!
I didn't bring/place enough slingage and I ran into heinous, almost deal breaking rope drag at the top of the 2nd pitch. The climb may be a little tricky that way? I've talked to somebody who apparently breaks it into three pitches, and that may be the way to go.
Placed the #6 shortly before the exit, but that was unnecessary.