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 ADVANCED
Utopia
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Adam-Ondi-Ahman T 
Notovitch Codex, The T,S 
Qebehsenuef T,S 
S=k log W T,S 
Spear of Destiny T 
Terma T 
Tjurunga T 

Tjurunga 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Paul and Sandy Bucher
Season: all
Page Views: 606
Submitted By: paul bucher on Mar 13, 2012

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anchors

Description 

Start on left of spire. Tunnel behind and up chimney to large block. Tunnel under (serious drag)straight up nice cracks and steps up to summit anchors. I untied at block and threw my rope over it and retied then went up. Great fun, mini adventure. some evidence of human traffic to sub summit so not certain on f/a. We installed bomber 1/2 inch anchors. Rappel off front side with single 70.

Location 

Small tower/spire right of Terma. Approach should bring you right to it or slightly to its left. Obvious feature. move up and left as the route tunnels behind. Single 70 to the deck and reverse approach to road.

Protection 

Single set of camalots to a # .75 and/or a set of stoppers.


Photos of Tjurunga Slideshow Add Photo
tjurunga
tjurunga
viewed from road side, looking at adam-ondi-ahman
viewed from road side, looking at adam-ondi-ahman
the start
the start

Comments on Tjurunga Add Comment
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By Rob Dillon
Mar 18, 2012

Evidence like a penny?
By paul bucher
From: moab, utah
May 22, 2012

negative on the penny. rock pile on sub summit that did not look natural. happy to add or change info if any body has any.
By Alison Conrad
Oct 17, 2012

Loose rock, be careful. Only used 3 cams-#2, #1, &#.75. Great anchors.