|Consensus:||YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]|
|FA:||Wayne Arrington 1973|
|Submitted By:||Bob Graham on Apr 27, 2010|
|Seasonal Raptor Closure 2012 MORE INFO >>>|
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By Matt Farrell
From: Bend, Oregon
Jul 22, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Definitely not 5.9. Watts guide says its 10b, which I think is fair. The hardest of the offwidths down in the Lower Gorge.
Also, if all you have is a #6 Camalot for big gear, then you're going to be running it out maybe 25' to the anchors. You could place a bigbro above that, although it gets more secure as it gets wider and turns into a squeeze.
The top has birdshit on it, but I suspect that if you're into 10b OW thats a bit spicy, you won't mind climbing through a few feet of birshit smeared rock.
There is a separate set of anchors for this climb up and to the left of the On The Road anchors. It is easy to access them from the top of On The Road. The bolts are old, but seemed ok as of spring 2014. The bolts are placed in a very bad spot on the flat top of the column just above the square edge of the column. Toproping off them isn't bad since you can use some slings to get the biners over the edge, but I wouldn't feed the links and lower/rap off these bolts. Go down to the On the Road anchors and lower of them instead.