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Upper Mother's Buttress
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Titus Groan T 
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Unsorted Routes:

Titus Groan 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 350'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
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Page Views: 624
Submitted By: Jesse Zacher on Oct 25, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Hanging Chad below the crux.

Description 

Pitch 1: Stellar. Big Hands to fingers. Takes you to the big ledge with a two bolt anchor.

Pitche 2: is the crux offwidth pitch where you go around several bulges. There are plenty of face holds and features, so one doesn't have to do any real offwidth climbing. Bring lots of slings and stretch the second pitch a full 60 meters to gain a ledge (past the squeeze which is slick!) and belay.

Pitch 3: The last pitch is mostly easy terrain, but watch out for extremely loose rock on the last hundred feet.

Location 

The route starts up the right side of a giant A on the west, outside of the gully. To your left it a left trending crack. You can either do the right of left side of the A. The right is 10- and the left 11ish fingers.

Protection 

A set of nuts, Doubles from #0.3-4 Camalots. One #5. Two ropes for the rap. Rap Doppelganger for the fastest and safest decent. To the right of the top out of Titus Groan below a large dead Pinyon Pine.


Photos of Titus Groan Slideshow Add Photo
Pink is Titus Groan. At the very beginning you can...
BETA PHOTO: Pink is Titus Groan. At the very beginning you can...

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By TuFF GonG
From: gunnison Colorado
Oct 12, 2009

A great alternative to the beginning of the second pitch is to traverse directly left off the belay to the second crack system. Climb face and a crack/seam into a nice, left-facing, thin crack.
By Jesse Zacher
Administrator
From: Grand Junction, Co
Aug 23, 2010

First pitch anchors and protection bolts for the routes below Titus Groan have been replaced courtesy of the ASCA.
By DavidCollins
From: Grand Junction, CO
Aug 24, 2010

Nice work on the anchors. Does that include replacement of the anchors on the 5.7 crack to the right of Titus Groan? The route which ends at the chockstone with the slings.
By John Peterson
Aug 24, 2010

I think you mean the one to the left. Jesse didn't want to replace the slings at all - he thought it would be better to cut the slings and not have a fixed anchor there. Me, I would have placed bolts!
By DavidCollins
From: Grand Junction, CO
Aug 25, 2010

Yes, I meant on the left.
By Jesse Zacher
Administrator
From: Grand Junction, Co
Aug 25, 2010

The route to the left is not a 5.7, in fact it is the start to two 5.12 climbs. The slings are just bail points. I would recommend that if you want to do the beginning section of these 5.12 routes, to just climb to the first pitch of Titus Groan and top rope it. A rats nest of webbing around a chock stone a quarter the way up an existing route is not justification for putting in anchors.
-Jesse