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W Virginia
> New River Gorge…
> New River Gorge…
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> L) Dr. Ruth's Big But…
Titan's Dice
5.13a YDS 7c+ French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 29 ZA E6 6c British
Avg: 3.8 from 5
votes
Routes in L) Dr. Ruth's Big Buttress
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Arms Control T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Between Coming and Going T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Crystal Vision T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Diddler, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Dr. Ruth's Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Grafenburg Crack, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Growing Hole, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Idiotsyncracies T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Recondite T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Technarete T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Titan's Dice S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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| Type: | Sport, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Doug Reed, 1991 |
| Page Views: | 2,619 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | Jeremy Steck on Nov 14, 2010 |
| Admins: | Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS
Details
All of the crags within the New River Gorge proper are on national parklands, and drone use is prohibited here. There has been some discussion about places to launch drones that are not on park property, and then flying them over the gorge. This is super poor form; don't do it. Park regulations prohibit all drone use over the boundaries without a permit.
Description
This is an amazing climb! Burly is the best way to sum it up. Although it is a sport route, its a nice blend of trad and sport skills. Start by climbing up into a pod/offwidth and dogleg left into the overhang. Throw in kneebar after kneebar as you inch out left toward the 4th bolt. Turn the lip and head into the dihedral. Face climb and stem your way through the dihedral to reach the roof. From here work your way left to pull the overhang for the best rest on the climb. From here, it's still not over, continue up through a crack system and a dyno to reach the shuts. Be careful through bolt 4. A tight belay is necessary to keep you from hitting the ground. It is recommended to have the belayer tie in for the lower section and then unclip once the climber reaches the dihedral. This thing is a wrestling match!
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