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Titanium Pitons.
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By Matt Bonillas
From Elyria
Feb 17, 2011
P1 Party Time 5.7 Red River Gorge.
Hello,

I am just poking around to find interest in Titanium Pitons.. I work in the Metal industry. I also build Stainless Steel Diving products..

I am toying with the idea of making some pitons and having them tested to find the breaking point.. any interest out there?

-Matt.

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By Chris Plesko
From Westminster, CO
Feb 17, 2011
OMG, I winz!!!
Sure I'm interested, ballpark cost? I think most would need a lot more info before buying. Thinking mostly of the alpine climbing set?

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By Aaron M
From Westminster, CO
Feb 17, 2011
Me
I'm with Chris. Let us know how it goes.

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By Brian in SLC
Feb 17, 2011
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch
Count me in as interested. I have a few of them, but, could always use some shallow angles and thinner knifeblades (which is what I seem to carry in steel most).

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By Brian in SLC
Feb 17, 2011
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch
Actually, as well, if you have access to Ti, you might consider trying to make some bolts/hangers.

Glue in bolts out of Ti are hard to find. And, hangers and studs/bolts also very scarce. A 10mm version of something that looks like a Petzl Longlife might be sweet.

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By Erik W
From Bay Area, CA
Feb 17, 2011
North face of Ama Dablam - taken on approach to Ko...
I'm pretty set on USHBA ones, but would be interested in a new company as well. In addition to breaking point, you need to test how the pin holds up to repeated use - I once pounded on an off-brand ti pin a couple years ago and that sucker buckled like reynolds wrap. It depends on what grade ti you use, of course, as a harder one is then susceptible to fractures, which also isn't any good.

Check out this link:
In Situ Pegs

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By Jim Titt
From Germany
Feb 17, 2011
Better not following that link, firstly because you will get an un-credited piece of work for which copyright exists (and Goggle WILL be getting a stiff mail about this in about 2 seconds). Secondly if you go to the original you will get the article complete with the illustrations!
bolt-products.com/Glue-inBoltD...

Jim

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By Erik W
From Bay Area, CA
Feb 17, 2011
North face of Ama Dablam - taken on approach to Ko...
Jim, thanks for posting the expanded link.

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By Aric Datesman
Feb 17, 2011
Might want to contact real-adventure.co.uk as well, Jim, as it's their site Google is pulling it from. Digging around a bit, it looks like they actually attribute your work to the BMC!

real-adventure.co.uk/old_site/...

-aric.

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By Jim Titt
From Germany
Feb 17, 2011
Thatīs o.k. Aric, the guy at Real adventure I know well, heīs on the BMC Tech commitee who I wrote the piece for. Who owns the copyright? Probably me since I claimed it and never signed it away but certainly not Google!

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By Aric Datesman
Feb 17, 2011
Gotcha. All well and good then, Jim. :-)

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By Matt Bonillas
From Elyria
Feb 17, 2011
P1 Party Time 5.7 Red River Gorge.
Jim,

Thanks for the handy article, I have seen it a few times when I was on my quest for bolting soft rock routes!

Ok, as for going in to more detail. I will initially build some prototypes of the common KB #1. I will be laser cutting all the parts and doing the forming afterwards. I am going to try and use Titanium grade 2 as it offers a good balance in strength, formability, and weld ability. Welding is really no concern here however..

As for costs, right now its too early in the game to give prices.. However that being said.. I am fairly confident I can really undercut USHBA.

My only concern is really finding a good shop / technique to give me good accurate testing on the strengths. Anyone have a place in mind?

I will def. consider expanding on to bolt hangers and various other goodies made from TI.. I have a pretty good amount of equipment at my disposal, I can pretty much go as far as the mind will let me.

More input about testing is def. helpful once again!

-Matt.

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By Jim Titt
From Germany
Feb 18, 2011
Hi Matt

The only test is for the eye strength (the holdingpower is just luck anyway really) and is from the UIAA, itīs pretty easy to set-up or make the fixture if you can find someone with an Instron tester but to get the certificated test youīll have to send them to Europe as far as I know. On the other hand not many people even know there is a standard and I wouldnīt bother, itīs not much of a selling point and costs loads to get!

The test is here theuiaa.org/safety_standards.p... and you go down the list to `pitonsī. Donīt bother with the pdf but click on the symbol beside which is the pictorial representation.

Iīd just do a rough strength test for the eye but the problem with a lot of the early titanium pitons was they tended to get cracks and lose part of the eye, the theory was that hammering them in caused stress cracks along the direction the sheet was rolled so Iīd be testing this! This was also a problem with one make of stainless pitons way back in the day when such things where made.

Jim

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By mtnkid85
Feb 18, 2011
Hmm, Im in just to keep track of this. Sounds interesting and may be something Id be up for if it comes to fruit.

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By PTZ
From Chicago/Colorado
Feb 18, 2011
Where? Wouldn't you like to know. You have to buy ...
I always thought that pitons were built using softer metals. So that they would bend and put less strain on the rock and the placement itself. Also they would sink better because they "give" a little and form to the crack.

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By Brian in SLC
Feb 18, 2011
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch
PTZ wrote:
I always thought that pitons were built using softer metals.


Soft iron pitons for use in limestone in the Alps...yeah.

Edit to add...but... Most pins are made from fairly hard but springy metal, which can be both placed AND removed and reused.

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By Roots
From Tustin, CA
Feb 18, 2011
Please post some updates as you progress.

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By Jon Miller on the WS
Jan 2, 2013
Anything ever come of this project? Ti pitons are even getting difficult to find in Nepal, at least ones that don't look like they were hack sawed from a sheet.

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By Woodchuck ATC
Jan 2, 2013
Rock Wars, RRG, 2008
Jon Miller on the WS wrote:
Anything ever come of this project? Ti pitons are even getting difficult to find in Nepal, at least ones that don't look like they were hack sawed from a sheet.


I got some of those 'hacked' off ones from some mail order Russian supplier back in late 80's...Pieces of titanium stolen from scrap each day from production of Mig 25 fighter planes of the era. They had multiple clip in holes and were pretty much just a wedge shaped rectangle, but daym nice for strength and light weight.

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