|Type: ||Sport, 1 pitch, 70'|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b [details]|
|FA: ||P.Jarrard, P Olenick, R. Turan, 1990|
|Page Views: ||5,379|
|Submitted By: ||Tony B on Oct 6, 2006|
|Good Page?||0 people like this page. Your opinion: |
Zak Romuald on goes for the "india feature" in the...
A classic climb with a classic finish- usually a long fall. I imagine that this climb has seen more staring-the-bolt-in-the-face swearing than any other route in the area.
Just left of Fuzzy Undercling, a line of large pockets rises up and right from the ground, becoming smaller and smaller towards the anchors. Waste no time and no rests getting there for success.
From the left branch of the approach trail you first encounter the "triplet" climbs,Sunshine, Moonbeam, and Into the Light. While these are at your right shoulder you can look further on to the routes on a massive overhanging buttress. These are (from right to left) Fuzzy Undercling, Tissue Tiger, Gung Ho, and Reliquary. To the right of these there is a huge, wide inset, which just within and on the left side of which there is a bolted slab, Possum Lips.
5 bolts to a bolted anchor.
Sussing out the opening moves.
Climber on Tissue Tiger.
Lindsey Gram on Tissue Tiger. Photo: Andy Hansen
Scott showing good form on his OSA of "Tissue Tige...
Boulder Local Curt MacNeill crushing on the Milita...
|By Kristoffer Schmarr|
From: The left beach
Mar 15, 2009
Love the no-hands rest in the cup holder!!! Wear pants :) Great route.
Apr 9, 2009
Sure you're thinking of the right route...I don't remember any no hands on this route???
From: Avon, Colorado
Oct 20, 2009
Fuzzy undercling has the no hands rest.
From: Albuquerque, NM
Oct 28, 2009
This felt like the hardest route on the wall, the crux of this one is solid. Clipping the last bolt shouldn't be a problem as there are huge jugs just above it, not a good one to try to clip early.
Maybe Kristoffer is referring to the protruding rock 1/2 way up and slightly right. It might be possible to sit on it. I certainly didn't attempt to get a no-hands there though.
|By randy baum|
From: Minneapolis, MN
Nov 23, 2009
no no-hands rests.
where jeans for crux move.
|By Ryan Justen|
From: St. Paul, MN
Jul 11, 2010
this climbs got my number...a bunch of whips on the crux and I still couldn't get it! Any beta for going off those 2 pockets and eventually to the flake at the last bolt?
Apr 8, 2012
Yeah, chalk up and go for it. :)
Jan 31, 2013
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6a
So much fun in one route! There are some awesome features on this rock.
|By Alex Lahr|
Mar 18, 2013
If you're tall, undercling/side pull the clipping jug before the crux, match the pockets, then hod on for dear life and you've bagged it. Just don't lose your head going to the anchors.
|By E thatcher|
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Dec 2, 2013
I found the no hands rest as well. A solid knee bar that not only allowed me to go no hands, but got me halfway through the crux without even having to pull. Felt rather soft with this beta, but very fun!