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First Sella Tower
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Tissi Route 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 590'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Attilio Tissi, Mariola Guglielmini, Giorgio Mase Dari. 1936
Season: Summer
Page Views: 832
Submitted By: eDixon on May 30, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Having a 'Tissi' in the rain.

Description 

Pitch 1 - Follow a crack in a corner to a chimney. Take the chimney to the top of a pillar. (35m)

Pitch 2 - Climb the crack in the wide groove. (20m)

Pitch 3 - Climb up to the left of a flake and onto the top of a small ledge. Then continue face climbing to another ledge. (40m)

Pitch 4 - Climb the crack up the slab to a large terrace. Traverse right on the terrace. (20m)

Pitch 5 - Climb face up past another flake and up the white wall with overhanging cracks. (15m)

Pitch 6 - Follow the broken crack systems up and right to another large terrace. (35m)

Pitch 7 - Climb face to the right of a small overhang and then move left to a crack that leads to the top of the formation. (40m)

Descent - From the top of the route go left and do (5) 20m raps down the west ridge.

Location 

The route ascends the West-Southwest arete. Park at Sella Pass and follow the trail towards the Southwest Face.

Protection 

There are numerous pins on the route. Brings some nuts to supplement.


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By BenL
Mar 21, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

j beyer soloed it. polished and short. only interesting in case the weather is bad.
By Jacques Lepesant
Feb 11, 2010

a little route with some wide cracks (good practice!) and after the midway ledge, one really good steep pitch.
worthwile for a short outing, especially as the descent doesn΄t take long.
a small rack is enough: camelots 0.4-2 and some midsized stoppers
By Tim Wolfe
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jan 14, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Description general: This route follows the WSW ridge of tower 1 and finishes on the South face. It is relatively short, all the belays are bolted, the approach and descent are short so makes for an easy day out in the sun.
Pitch 1 –30 m 5.9: Climb the awkward slippery chimney crack and step left to a stance Pitch 2 – 45m 5.9+: Climb the right hand corner crack, traverse to the left 2 meters to a chimney/corner. Climb this to a ledge near the top of the pillar that is leaning against the ridge. Pitch 3 – 35 m 5.7: Move left and climb a smooth slab via a crack to a ledge Pitch 4 – 18 m 5.10a: Climb up the yellow dihedral and over the black roof Pitch 5 – 35 m 5.9: Climb the vertical black corner, move right then up the yellow corner to a big ledge – move right to the belay Pitch 6 – 40 m 5.8: Mover right around the overhand and continue at an angle left trending to the summit.
Descent:There is no reason to risk rappeling or to get in the crowd coming up the rappel route. Instead, walk East (right) down a path to the col between the first and second towers. Climb up a short distance then continue the traverse (fairly exposed) until it is possible to descend some steep but broken ledges to the grassy section below the south face, trend back around to Sella Pass and your car.