Tiptoe Through The Tulips 5.8+
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| Type: | TR, 1 pitch |
| Consensus: | 5.8+ [details] |
| FA: | Sierra Dall, 2011 |
| Submitted By: | Leo Paik on Nov 12, 2012 |
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Deb on the Tiptoe Through The Tulips, P1b crux.
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Description Tiptoe Through The Tulips starts left of the nadir of Pulpit Rock in a water groove with bolts (which seem to have been removed as of 5/14/13). There are 3 variations (Griff-Orama, TTTT, and Shroom Groove) once you get to the 2nd bolt (which seems to have been removed as of 5/14/13). The center bolt line is the Tiptoe.... There is a crux slab move after the 3rd bolt (which seems to have been removed as of 5/14/13). If you force the line up the slab higher, it'll feel at least 5.9. If you use the obvious left groove/flake, it will be easier. At the 10th bolt (which seems to have been removed as of 5/14/13), there is an obvious ledge / belay stance with a bolt (which seem to have been removed as of 5/14/13) that can be supplemented with a green / blue Alien, 5.8+, ~80'. You may get weird rope drag over this roof.
You can downclimb to the anchors on Vegetative State to rappel, scramble off to the left, or continue up the rock either going into the chimney above, 5.6 PG-13?, or left into the crack system for another 2 pitches, 5.8+ PG-13.
Location This starts to the left of the nadir of Pulpit Rock in a water groove.
Protection 10 bolts (which seem to have been removed as of 5/14/13), small cams to back up the anchor.
| Comments on Tiptoe Through The Tulips |
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By s.kimball
Dec 3, 2012
| Please clean up this mess of a bolting job. Three stupid, overbolted routes within arms reach of each other. What's with the 2 steeper routes to the right, again a stupid bolted variation with mangled bolts still showing. What kind of an example does this set: an area with many moderates that is sure to be visited and only several hundred feet from a National Park trailhead? Reminds me of the Golden Shower fiasco at Loch Vail but worse. |
By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Dec 4, 2012
| FWIW, it may be 5+ people & 2-3 parties that bolted these lines. I haven't figured out where the left line, Griff-Orama, goes exactly, but it may have a trad start out to the left. One of the challenges is that this area require hand drilling, sometimes leading to spinning Rawl 5 piece bolts. |
By s.kimball
Dec 10, 2012
| Perhaps, Leo, you could suggest to the boy/boys that are bolting these lines: a lesson at Home Depot before any more routes are butchered. |
By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Dec 11, 2012
| Scott, I know you are well-intentioned, but I am far from a bolting expert. I only know one of the folks that bolted those lowest routes at Pulpit. We plan to clean up some of the studs you mentioned. BTW, I have checked at Home Depot, and they don't have hand drills or any knowledge about hand drilling. Plus, don't they carry those cheap Redhead bolts that climbers diss? |
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