2014 Update: Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and all seasonal raptor closure areas on U.S. Forest Service land will be re-opened August 1, 2014 for climbing.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at www.fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recreation.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
Climb as for Dementia until you reach the small blocky roof just below the cool arete/dihedral. Go to the right, under this roof, then up a short distance to something of a ledge. From there, look to the right again and climb the left-facing corner for a short distance. A left-leaning crack will appear on your left, which is not as hard as it looks. Climb up and left on this crack to bypass the overhang (good pro), then from a ledge up to the top of the crags on easy cracks.
Although this line wanders a bit, the drag is not too bad with judicious use of 2-foot runners.
Standard light rack up to 3". The pro and plcements are reasonable, but take a few longer slings if you plan to place a lot of gear.