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Tips to set boulder problems at the gym

Original Post
Pablo Camacho · · Margalef · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 20

Hi

I'm going through the RPTM, on the power phase, where bouldering short powerful problems is important. I had my first session yesterday and struggle to set problems. The gym where I climb doesn't have preset boulder problems so I'm on my own.

Any tips on keys to design a short (4 to 5 moves) boulder problem with an emphasis on deadpoints and other moves that will trigger increases on contact strength?

Thanks!

Charlie S · · NV · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 2,391

Assuming there are a number of holds on the wall, you're off to a good start.

I'll start with good holds (don't want the crux to be getting off of the ground) on small feet. I then look for a near-full extension move to some crimp (open hand!) The idea is to touch it but be unable to lock off and hold on to it. Expect to put several days worth of effort into this move.

Sometimes I'll have 1 or 2 "warmup" moves to get to that point, but they shouldn't be taxing.

4 or 5 quality burns per route. After I do one set, I'll find/build another one that works the opposite side of the body.

So to answer your question more directly:
Small footholds
Small handholds
15-30 degrees overhanging
Emphasize large (though not heroic) moves to small target holds (stole this recommendation straight out of the book)
Mimic moves that may be similar to your goal problems/routes

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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