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This awesome fingercrack will test not only your crack technique but your ability to place gear from strenuous positions. It looks straightforward from the ground, but the difficult fingercrack down low builds a pump quickly. Hanging out to get in a piece at the top with one fingerlock and nothing but smears for your feet leaves most redlined for what looks like a simple exit, but heartbreakingly turns out to be the crux of the route. After you finesse the weird, slopey exit to the crack the climbing becomes much mellower but still fun as you negotiate easy terrain and then one final weird 5.9 chimney/stem move to reach the top.
Locate the obvious clean fingercrack about 20 feet to the right of the popular Hammer and Sickle routes on the far left end of the Hanging Gardens wall.
Gear to 1" with extra .4-.5" pieces for the splitter fingercrack down low.
By Ian G.
From: PDX, OR
Apr 16, 2010
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
At the chimney/stem move at the top, do not head right or you will be in a world of hurt!
By Nate Ball
From: Taipei, TW
May 3, 2012
Heard of a guy decking off this route and sustaining a compound fracture. Be careful up there.