Tips / Ideas on Max R training

Title says it...just looking for some tips, cool things people have come up with for their Max R phase. I'm about a week out...i just useing a campus board i have in my backyard.

Ah..Here's a question...How many workout sessions do you do per week? 1 or 2?

Great question, because I start this phase on Monday. So far mine is just going to be Monday campus training. Warmup with simple ladders followed by 3-4 sets of 1-3-5, 1-4-7 and maybe a max distance on the campus board. The weekend will be some sort of bouldering session circuit. Double campus dynos and drop downs are not on my list until March so I'm interested as well in other exercises.

jarthur wrote:Great question, because I start this phase on Monday. So far mine is just going to be Monday campus training. Warmup with simple ladders followed by 3-4 sets of 1-3-5, 1-4-7 and maybe a max distance on the campus board. The weekend will be some sort of bouldering session circuit. Double campus dynos and drop downs are not on my list until March so I'm interested as well in other exercises.

sounds like a simple but effective routine...mine will prob be similar. I think i will start with once a week...then bump it up depending on my recovery time. I've been doing my HYP hangboard routines on Mon and Wed, then climbing on Sat...after wk1 i started recovering quicker.

I've trained in the past quite a bit and used the Periodization routines as stated in books, blogs, etc...

However this time around I'm jumping on the "Church of Anderson" bandwagon:
lazyhclimbingclub.wordpress…
rockclimbing.com/Articles/T…

My biggest motivation is that we just had our first daughter Sept 1st of this year so I just want to maximize my time spent outside. I've also got a New River Gorge trip planned April 2014 and I want to send my a realistic project list quickly while I'm there. I left too many things undone when I moved from the Southeast to Colorado.

For lack of a link, or effort to find it right now, look up Sean McColl's campus video(s?) on youtube. No, you probably won't be able to do all of them, at least not on the smallest rungs, but there's some ideas in there. Just look at a bunch of campusing videos, blog posts etc for ideas, but make sure to critically assess which ones will be beneficial (and most importantly, not harmful) for you to work into your routine.

My last cycle I did some simple ladders, some bumps, long single moves, and continually bumping one hand to max spread from the starting rung etc. There's a lot you can do even if you're not up to par and doing 1-5-9's yet :)

Is campusing really better than limit bouldering and getting on your project during power phase (to work the bouldery sections for a power workout)?

Campusing never struck me as an incredibly useful way to train but then again I never realy threw myself at it. I've always been able to gain by training endurance, power endurance, and finger strength.

Max recruitment for shoulders, hands, or both? I feel like no one ever makes that distinction.

For shoulder power, Max weighted pullups 2-4 reps, 8-10 minute rests, 3 sets.

Or double clutch dyno's on the campus board. If 1-4 or 1-5 is too easy add weight as needed.

1-4-whatever and 1-5-whatever are very helpful, along with max weight staggered pullups.

For finger power I like to do max weighted hangs, relatively same protocol as max pullups.

Double clutch negatives on small rungs, add weight as needed

For recruiting both at the same time I like to campus boulder and limit boulder...far more sport specific but fails to really isolate anything

@ jarthur
I'm also on the Anderson wagon now...

So i was re-reading some of his literature on campusing...he says he always leaves two full days of rest after his campus workout. So this doesnt leave full rest periods if you try to fit in 2 sessions during the week and climb on the weekend...so, its either 2 campus session in a seven day period, or 1 campus / 1 max bouldering...thats how i read it.

And it seems like i'm gonna have to adjust my spacing on my rungs...they're currently at about the 22cm area(about 8in)...Anderson reccomends about 3-4in.

I would suggest thinking less about days and more about hours in terms of recovery times. Instead of mon-thursday-sunday think 50+ hours

josh villeneuve wrote:I would suggest thinking less about days and more about hours in terms of recovery times. Instead of mon-thursday-sunday think 50+ hours

Don't you think it's a little easier to schedule things on a specific day as opposed to a specific hr...especially with a busy schedule.

Its just a personal preference but I like hours better. It's more flexible( and I find that very important for something so tedious). It also helps me keep a better record of when my last session ended and ideally when the next one should begin, otherwise i might end late...say 10pm and start too early on the next day.

These workouts should really never take longer than 2 hours at the MOST, surely you can find the time, be it waking up a little earlier or going to bed a little later...we all have to be willing to sacrifice something

dave wave wrote:@ jarthur I'm also on the Anderson wagon now... So i was re-reading some of his literature on campusing...he says he always leaves two full days of rest after his campus workout. So this doesnt leave full rest periods if you try to fit in 2 sessions during the week and climb on the weekend...so, its either 2 campus session in a seven day period, or 1 campus / 1 max bouldering...thats how i read it. And it seems like i'm gonna have to adjust my spacing on my rungs...they're currently at about the 22cm area(about 8in)...Anderson reccomends about 3-4in.

I'm only campusing once/week. I don't think I said I was doing 2 days unless I mistyped.

For Max R starting next Monday I'm leaving 2 days rest in between sessions.
So next week:
Mon - Campus (Max R)
Tue - ARC
Wed - Rest/Aerobic
Thu - Hangboard (HYP) - Last HYP workout
Fri - Rest/Aerobic
Sat - Boulder (Max R)
Sun - Rest/Aerobic

Then I won't campus again until the following Wednesday.

I could send you my plan if you're interested. It's basically an Excel file with my Winter & Spring Training schedules along with my Hangboard plans as well. My Winter is not the best time to be peaking because I'm going to be peaking around the 16th of Dec till the 12th of January. But I've chosen my local projects around the Front Range and Shelf Rd that tend to be pretty good during the Winter and easy to get to. The Spring session is more specifc since I'll be at the New River Gorge during the Peak phase.

josh villeneuve wrote:Its just a personal preference but I like hours better. It's more flexible( and I find that very important for something so tedious). It also helps me keep a better record of when my last session ended and ideally when the next one should begin, otherwise i might end late...say 10pm and start too early on the next day. These workouts should really never take longer than 2 hours at the MOST, surely you can find the time, be it waking up a little earlier or going to bed a little later...we all have to be willing to sacrifice something

i get you man...i know, you get back what you put in.
...just super busy at this point, and i already don't get enough sleep as is...But i'll have to try it next time around, see how it works out. Thanks for the idea.

jarthur wrote: I'm only campusing once/week. I don't think I said I was doing 2 days unless I mistyped. For Max R starting next Monday I'm leaving 2 days rest in between sessions. So next week: Mon - Campus (Max R) Tue - ARC Wed - Rest/Aerobic Thu - Hangboard (HYP) - Last HYP workout Fri - Rest/Aerobic Sat - Boulder (Max R) Sun - Rest/Aerobic Then I won't campus again until the following Wednesday. I could send you my plan if you're interested. It's basically an Excel file with my Winter & Spring Training schedules along with my Hangboard plans as well. My Winter is not the best time to be peaking because I'm going to be peaking around the 16th of Dec till the 12th of January. But I've chosen my local projects around the Front Range and Shelf Rd that tend to be pretty good during the Winter and easy to get to. The Spring session is more specifc since I'll be at the New River Gorge during the Peak phase.

I was reffering to my thought about the twice a week...that's how many times i use the hangboard for my HYP phase.

Yea, I'd like to check out that schedule...looks cool...I haven't ever overlapped my training phases, would you recommend it in the future?
My approach is pretty basic right now...coming to a close on remodeling my house, and with it getting dark early(no options to use ARC phase anywhere close).

This is what my HYP schedule looks like now:

Mon Core / Hangboard
Tue Back Training / Antagonist
Wed Core / Hangboard
Thu Back / Antagonist
Fri Rest
Sat Max Boulder
Sun Rest

dave wave wrote:Anderson ... says he always leaves two full days of rest after his campus workout. So this doesnt leave full rest periods if you try to fit in 2 sessions during the week and climb on the weekend...so, its either 2 campus session in a seven day period, or 1 campus / 1 max bouldering...thats how i read it.

The rest between workoust is always going to be very personal, depending on many factors, like your age, your injury history, and the intensity + duration of the workout you are recovering from. It is true that I take 2 full rest days (~70 hours) after each campus workout, but I'm old (36), nursing many old injuries, and my campus sessions are just like my...long and hard :) If that much rest is problematic, I would consider experimenting with the above variables and then experiment with less rest. For example, you may be better off doing 2 shorter/easier campus sessions per week as opposed to one long/hard session. Perhaps not, but its probably worth trying. Generally the more intense an activity, the quicker you recover, so if you are not injury prone, you can probably get by on less rest. But pay close attention to your joints.

dave wave wrote: And it seems like i'm gonna have to adjust my spacing on my rungs...they're currently at about the 22cm area(about 8in)...Anderson reccomends about 3-4in.

Yes, I think you will find you will plateau pretty quickly at that spacing, then you will struggle to advance incrementally. But you shouldn't have to mess with the existing rungs, just add new rungs equi-distant between the existing rungs.

@ Mono

Thanks for clarification...

Any thoughts on my last question?....Any benefit to overlapping phases of training, or doing two at a time? I've always just run one phase out then jumper into the next...is this a sub par way to approach it?

Thanks

dave wave wrote:Any benefit to overlapping phases of training, or doing two at a time?

I'm sure Mono has his own experience/preference, but I don't think there's enough research to say whether one approach is better than the other.

The little research (which isn't climbing specific) tend to point to the following:

1) concurrent training of different types (strength, power, endurance) can interfere w/ each other

2) a strength/power component followed by endurance training in the same training session is OK, provided your total work load for the session is similar (so do 1/2 & 1/2)

3) strength exercise immediately followed by power may be more beneficial than either exercise alone (studied for high jump)

I've been following a training regiment that has a mixture of the climbing components and so far I like it (which isn't saying much), mostly because I don't feel like I'm letting go of general climbing fitness while training. We don't work on all aspects in the same session, but they do follow the order of warm up, pulling muscle, fingerboard, campus, bouldering/route climbing, pushing muscle.

Of course, there are strategies to peak for a competition, a road trip or a project. But I don't compete and climbing season here is long enough that I can have a project all the time; for the most part I don't need to peak for a specific short duration.

look to Westside Barbell techniques for a nice conjugate periodization methodology.

Good stuff on here guys...thanks for the feedback!

dave wave wrote:Any thoughts on my last question?....Any benefit to overlapping phases of training, or doing two at a time? I've always just run one phase out then jumper into the next...is this a sub par way to approach it? Thanks

I like to perform distinct phases. I try to maximize the intensity of my strength and power workouts, and I've found its hard (for me) to do that when I try to mix the phases. I think part of the problem for me is that I take so much rest, that if I alternate workouts I'm going almost a week between like workouts, which makes it hard to guess the proper increment of resistance. Honestly for me to get the very most out of my hangboard workouts I need to focus exclusively on that.

I think the benefit to mixing phases would be if you were trying to do some type of non-linear periodization. But realistically if I were doing that I would probably cut out the strength training and just do limit bouldering & campus to maintain my finger strength, and mix it with PE and/or endurance. That is more or less what I do during the last month or so of each training cycle, with some variations depending on my goals...

thanks for the reply mono!