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Routes in Tiny Town
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Alcove Corner T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Compliant S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Footloose T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Pokeymon S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Ray of Heaven S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Ray of Heck TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Short Sport S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Six Feet Over S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sun’s Out, Guns Out T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Tiny Town Alcove Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Tiny Town Buckets S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Tiny Town Pillar T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Tiny Town Unknown T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 32 ft (10 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,109 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Jason Halladay on Sep 22, 2008 |
| Admins: | GRK, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: (1) BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park and US Forest Sevice lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING. US Forest Service Lands closed to new route developement. (2) Highlining temporary ban in place at CIRO/CRSP
Details
(1) The BLM has amended the Cassia Resource Management Plan (RMP) to permanently close the 400 acres of land it manages in the Castle Rocks Interagency Recreation Area to staging, traditional rock climbing, sport climbing and bouldering, as well as overnight camping and development of new trails. Here is a link to a map that shows the BLM land in yellow. parksandrecreation.idaho.go…
The adjacent Castle Rocks State Park and the National Forest Service land to the north remains OPEN TO CLIMBING,
as does the nearby City of Rocks National Reserve.
(2) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Arrest and/or hefty fines are likely if caught rock climbing with ropes and gear in the BLM land.
Please respect this closure to ensure access to the open climbing at Castle Rocks is not threatened.
The "Final Supplementary Rules for the Castle Rocks Land Use Plan Amendment Area, Idaho" is located in the Federal Registry. This document gives the details on the closure but doesn't provide a map. You can check it out here: federalregister.gov/documen…
The adjacent Castle Rocks State Park and the National Forest Service land to the north remains OPEN TO CLIMBING,
as does the nearby City of Rocks National Reserve.
(2) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Arrest and/or hefty fines are likely if caught rock climbing with ropes and gear in the BLM land.
Please respect this closure to ensure access to the open climbing at Castle Rocks is not threatened.
The "Final Supplementary Rules for the Castle Rocks Land Use Plan Amendment Area, Idaho" is located in the Federal Registry. This document gives the details on the closure but doesn't provide a map. You can check it out here: federalregister.gov/documen…
The low down
Climb the steep, patina-laden west face of the obvious pillar south of the main rock in Tiny Town. This looks like a pillar from the west but less like a pillar from other angles.
It's a short but fun route and worth doing on your way in or out. D. Bingham gives this route three stars in his Castle Rocks book.
It's a short but fun route and worth doing on your way in or out. D. Bingham gives this route three stars in his Castle Rocks book.
Where do I find this route?
The route starts behind a tree on the west face of the pillar. The patina and horizontal cracks are obvious.
If I fall, what's there to stop me?
A vertical crack down low followed by horizontal cracks up higher offer protection placements ranging from a .3 camalot to a #1 camalot. No anchors on top--body-anchor belay the second up from a secure stance up and over the top and walk off to the east via an easy scramble.
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