Tinsel Town aka BR 2?
BETA PHOTO: Looking up at the new route with the roof up top, ...
This is a long, new route that follows tons of huge sandy pockets up a bulging face, and ends above a big (4ft) roof. There is a bolt on the right side of the roof if you want a "safer" lead and climb out right. The anchors are on a nice shelf directly over the roof and the rest of the climb.
This route is located between Miller Time and Cactus Carrie.
Lots of new, shiny bolts.
Abby leading up BR2, a filthy and dangerous yet fu...
|Comments on Tinsel Town aka BR 2?
|By Noah G|
From: Alma, Co
Sep 27, 2009
This line should never have been bolted despite how appealing it looks from the ground. Dirty loose rock that will never clean up to a barely attached pillar with bolts in it, waiting to dump tons of rock on belayer and passers by. I downclimbed for fear of potentially falling on one of these bolts. Thanks to the equipper for the hard work, but no thanks.
|By Rob Culbertson|
May 23, 2010
This route is immediately left of Spiney Dan. Yes, there is a dangerous detached column you have to deal with about 1/2 way up and extending above the traverse left to the anchors. We were concerned enough to alert the party next door on S Dan to possible rockfall. Probably wouldn't get on it again.
|By Ivan Rezucha|
From: Fort Collins, CO
Mar 21, 2011
I believe this is called BR 2 in the D'Antonio guide. I enjoyed this, but perhaps I'm way more tolerant than others of sketchy rock. The overhanging pockety (but sandy) rock at the bottom was cool looking and fun to climb. If I was trad climbing, I would have wrapped a long sling around the semi detached pillar near the top, at the roof. We went around the roof on the right, not realizing the route was meant to climb the roof. After going around the roof on the right it felt pretty silly stepping straight left to the anchors.
|By Crag Dweller|
From: Denver, CO
May 9, 2011
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c
You can see why someone would want to bolt this when looking up at. It just looks fun. The movement is great. The rock is pretty chossy, though. And, because the bolting spreads out as you go up (very nicely, btw), the questionable rock adds a bit of spice factor.
That pillar is cool and a little bit eerie. I hope I'm not around when it comes down...and, it's hard to imagine it will be there for a long time.
If this climb were on solid rock, it would be 4 stars.
|By josh pranckun|
Jul 22, 2011
Unique rock texture for Shelf Road, which really entices you to climb it. But there is a lot of loose rock - someone in our group pulled off a softball.
|By John Maurer|
Feb 19, 2012
I hesitate to rate this route in fear it may attract attention. I'd hate to encourage anyone to get on this and then have them get hurt. I really enjoyed this route - but there are sections that feel extremely dangerous. One bolt in particular is in a very large section of weak, undercut rock - better perhaps not to clip it. I would not climb this if it is crowded in the area.
All that said, this route feels like some soft Garden route. It probably is a bomb to many, but the moves and questionable nature of some sections add to its character. Not for everyone - but certainly for someone. I thought it was very entertaining. Pull gently. Three stars . . . or a bomb.
|By Dean Cool|
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 4, 2013
Sandy, Yes! Some choss, Yes! Fun, YES! Great route. In January 2013, two bolts were added, and some cleanup to the rock took place. Should climb better than what you hear from the last comments. Pulling the roof was the crux but way fun.
Mar 4, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
Total pile. 9 out of 10 roadcuts have better rock quality than this thing.
|By Jordan Hirro|
From: Colorado Springs/Glenwood Spri
Dec 16, 2013
Bit of a chossy and sandy fee but still super fun! I would still recommend it. I think that with the traffic lately it's cleaned up a bit, because I didn't find anything loose today or had the fear of a bolt/hold pulling. Also, there were numerous bolts and the perfect distances away, nothing to worry about. Go do it!