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North (Left) Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Full Rubber Mission 
Glenda 
Grendel 
Jabberwocky 
Once Upon a Time 
Rumplestiltskin 
Straight On Til Morning 
Technowitch 
Tinkerbell's Nightmare 
White Witch 

Tinkerbell's Nightmare 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Matt Samet, Lee Sheftel, 1990
Page Views: 741
Submitted By: DisturbingThePeace on Sep 21, 2008
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Description 

Shared start with Grendal, and head straight up after the fourth bolt. Things remain easy until around the seventh bolt, where the angle steepens, and the holds shrink a bit. Perservere and continue to the top, heading right slightly to clip the chains. This line feels more natural than the two adjacent lines "Grendel" and "Straight on 'Til Morning".

Might be a little soft for the Guidebook grade of 12b.


Location 

Shares Start with Grendel, and heads straight up after the fourth bolt. Second route from the far left side of the tower, between "Technowitch" and "Once upon a Time".


Protection 

10 Bolts to Anchors



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By Pinklebear
Jun 22, 2010

FA: Matt Samet, Lee Sheftel. Lee loaned me his drill, some half-inch bolts, and helped consult on how to stay into the wall and drill, as I'd not yet learned that yet! Hint: it involved a hook.

FA: 1990