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Tinkerbell's Nightmare
5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British
Avg: 2.8 from 52
votes
Routes in North (Left) Face
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Full Rubber Mission S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Glenda S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Grendel S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Jabberwocky S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Once Upon a Time S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Rumplestiltskin S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Straight On Til Morning S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Technowitch S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Tinkerbell's Nightmare S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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White Witch S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Matt Samet, Lee Sheftel, 1990 |
| Page Views: | 2,123 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Shirtless Mike on Sep 21, 2008 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Thompson Canyon
Details
The gate to Thompson Canyon's southern end is locked and is no longer a viable option for short and convenient access. The standard access is now via the longer, rougher Davenport Lookout/Thompson Canyon route.
New Mexico CRAG (NMCRAG) will continue to be in contact with the ranch owners and the Forest Service to see if it can resolve this issue. In the meantime, please respect the closure, spread the word and please do not attempt to drive through the private ranch.
New Mexico CRAG (NMCRAG) will continue to be in contact with the ranch owners and the Forest Service to see if it can resolve this issue. In the meantime, please respect the closure, spread the word and please do not attempt to drive through the private ranch.
Description
Shared start with Grendal, and head straight up after the fourth bolt. Things remain easy until around the seventh bolt, where the angle steepens, and the holds shrink a bit. Perservere and continue to the top, heading right slightly to clip the chains. This line feels more natural than the two adjacent lines "Grendel" and "Straight on 'Til Morning".
Might be a little soft for the Guidebook grade of 12b.
Might be a little soft for the Guidebook grade of 12b.
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