Tinkerbell's Nightmare  5.12b

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Type:  Sport, 80 feet Consensus:  5.12a/b [details] FA:  Matt Samet, Lee Sheftel, 1990 Submitted By:  DisturbingThePeace on Sep 21, 2008 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Thompson Canyon's southern access via the private ranch is now closed. MORE INFO >>> The gate to Thompson Canyon's southern end is locked and is no longer a viable option for short and convenient access. The standard access is now via the longer, rougher Davenport Lookout/Thompson Canyon route. See below for details. New Mexico CRAG (NMCRAG) will continue to be in contact with the ranch owners and the Forest Service to see if we can resolve this issue. In the meantime, please respect the closure and spread the word. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Shared start with Grendal, and head straight up after the fourth bolt. Things remain easy until around the seventh bolt, where the angle steepens, and the holds shrink a bit. Perservere and continue to the top, heading right slightly to clip the chains. This line feels more natural than the two adjacent lines "Grendel" and "Straight on 'Til Morning".

Might be a little soft for the Guidebook grade of 12b.

Location 

Shares Start with Grendel, and heads straight up after the fourth bolt. Second route from the far left side of the tower, between "Technowitch" and "Once upon a Time".

Protection 

10 Bolts to Anchors