Tinker Toys 5.10b
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James P. moving through the first few moves of Tin...
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Description This is the thin crack to the left of the wider crack Dinkey Doinks. This is on the east/northeast face. A beautiful crack that eases off after the crux at the bottom.
Protection Takes small to medium nuts and cams. large pro for the anchor.
The middle of the three cracks.
Photographer: Grah...
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Al Sanderson on the fun steep upper bit.
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By Steve Powell
From: Alhambra, California
May 5, 2003
| A real nice route. only one questionable 5.10 move at the start. the rest of the route is 5.9 |
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jan 11, 2004
rating: 5.9
| The whole grade route feels like 5.9 or 5.9+, really. Lots of stoppers will go in this thing too. I sewed it up the whole way, continously anticipating a 5.10 crux move that never appeared. |
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Apr 24, 2006
| The move off the deck is easy - after which there is some technical stuff to the horizontal crack which in my opinion merits a 5.10b rating. A high quality route on steep rock with very nice moves.
Once again the rope can be hitched around a convenient block for a belay. Or is this a dying art? |
By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Apr 25, 2006
rating: 5.10b
| I climbed this again recently and found the moves getting up to the horizontal to be in the 10b range. Beyond that, fairly consistent 5.9 climbing to the top. As Chris says, looping your rope around the block works great for an anchor. |
By mschlocker
From: San Diego, CA
Jan 4, 2010
rating: 5.10b
| I really enjoyed this route. Any longer and it would bump up to 4 stars in my book. |
By Joe Hunt
From: Long Beach, CA
Mar 18, 2011
rating: 5.10b
| Ditto what Locker said, but maybe more like the bottom of the route all the way up! Anyway, really had fun on this route. |
By Drederek
Mar 31, 2012
rating: 5.10-
| A very nice route but not a letter grade harder than Taxman. |
By Donno
From: Newport Beach
Oct 22, 2012
| TR'd this which is worth doing if you can't lead this grade. Great climbing! |
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