Type: Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Smoot, Gardner & Saxey '96
Page Views: 12,957 total · 53/month
Shared By: Peter Gram on Apr 24, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C

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Warning Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Tingey's Torture has some more pitches to do after climbing Tarzan and Tingey's Terror. I did some interesting variations (by accident), but I will describe what the real route is!

P1 & P2) Climb Tarzan or Sweet Jane.

P3 - P6) Climb Tingey's Terror.

P7) From the trees, continue up the crack system to a V formed by to wide cracks. Some fixed pro climbs up the face to the right of the two cracks. Take your pick of a few good ledges for a gear anchor.

P8) Several options. Most straight forward is a 5.6 slot straight up, stopping at a big ledge (gear anchor). Or try a 5.10 bolted variation to the right.

P9) From the ledge, do a small runout to the first of 3 bolts. This face is 5.8, and then has a long easy runout to a 2 bolt anchor.

P10) Traverse left from the bolts, then ramble up easy slabs to a right facing corner. Follow this fun easy corner until a bolt on the left face. Climb the slab up clipping a second bolt, then easily up and over to a set of chain anchors.

Descent) Long tedius scramble west down to the Schoolroom rappel, then a one-rope rap. Another option that I haven't tried is to do some 2-rope raps and downclimbing down and right of the climb.

Protection Suggest change

Standard Rack. Several bolts. As usual, Aliens are very useful.

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