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Tingey's Torture
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2.9 from 165 votes
Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches, Grade III |
FA: | Smoot, Gardner & Saxey '96 |
Page Views: | 12,957 total · 53/month |
Shared By: | Peter Gram on Apr 24, 2004 |
Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
Tingey's Torture has some more pitches to do after climbing Tarzan and Tingey's Terror. I did some interesting variations (by accident), but I will describe what the real route is!
P1 & P2) Climb Tarzan or Sweet Jane.
P3 - P6) Climb Tingey's Terror.
P7) From the trees, continue up the crack system to a V formed by to wide cracks. Some fixed pro climbs up the face to the right of the two cracks. Take your pick of a few good ledges for a gear anchor.
P8) Several options. Most straight forward is a 5.6 slot straight up, stopping at a big ledge (gear anchor). Or try a 5.10 bolted variation to the right.
P9) From the ledge, do a small runout to the first of 3 bolts. This face is 5.8, and then has a long easy runout to a 2 bolt anchor.
P10) Traverse left from the bolts, then ramble up easy slabs to a right facing corner. Follow this fun easy corner until a bolt on the left face. Climb the slab up clipping a second bolt, then easily up and over to a set of chain anchors.
Descent) Long tedius scramble west down to the Schoolroom rappel, then a one-rope rap. Another option that I haven't tried is to do some 2-rope raps and downclimbing down and right of the climb.
P1 & P2) Climb Tarzan or Sweet Jane.
P3 - P6) Climb Tingey's Terror.
P7) From the trees, continue up the crack system to a V formed by to wide cracks. Some fixed pro climbs up the face to the right of the two cracks. Take your pick of a few good ledges for a gear anchor.
P8) Several options. Most straight forward is a 5.6 slot straight up, stopping at a big ledge (gear anchor). Or try a 5.10 bolted variation to the right.
P9) From the ledge, do a small runout to the first of 3 bolts. This face is 5.8, and then has a long easy runout to a 2 bolt anchor.
P10) Traverse left from the bolts, then ramble up easy slabs to a right facing corner. Follow this fun easy corner until a bolt on the left face. Climb the slab up clipping a second bolt, then easily up and over to a set of chain anchors.
Descent) Long tedius scramble west down to the Schoolroom rappel, then a one-rope rap. Another option that I haven't tried is to do some 2-rope raps and downclimbing down and right of the climb.
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