Tingey's Direct 

The Ruckman book shows a bolt on the groove pitch, but I've never seen it. Since you have a drill...

Probably the best and most direct way to get to fudd ledge if you're trying to link pitches on Tingey's. This variation avoids the easy but runout traverse to the bolts of the terror slab.
I got to the start of the route (rap tree anchor) in 1 pitch from the base of Tarzan. Quite long and the rope drag gets heinous if you place gear anywhere near the top of Tarzan (don't clip the anchors or sling the tree to the right of the anchors, run it out on the easy slab to the lieback corner).
You have to bushwack a bit to get below the first bolt, but it's not as bad as indecent exposure (wink wink).
Once it cleans up it will be similar to a low angle Viewing, with good patina edges and well spaced bolts. Bring a .5 or .75 for the groove (coolest feature!) and some slings for trees.

Don't ever remember a bolt being there. You can get some gear in.

I broke the bolt when I fell on it in the 1990s.

Tourist Trap Direct Submitted By: LCC Climber on Aug 8, 2010

Those 90's sure were sooomethin'! I would love to see a picture of the old bolt hole, which was supposedly in the groove not where you indicate.
Bad memory or just plain ol'BS?

The bolt hole is there, just below where the good gear starts in the groove.

So is it in the groove or out as indicated by the above topo? Is there a bolt there now? More info will make it easier to find the hole as I and most others have never seen it. If the bolt has been replaced then why not post this worthy variation up in the data base? Is the bolt hole the one shown in the Ruckman guide for the groove pitch? I will go look. Thanks for the info. Must of been a bloody near death fall!

I'm sure the old hole is from the bolt listed in the Ruckman guide. Looking at the above photo the hole is about 10' left and then another 10' straight down, almost directly under the crack. I checked it out a couple of years ago and it looks like the bolt broke off flush with the rock, hard to see and harder to find. Was probably an old 1/4''er. Might be cool if it got replaced cause that would make a much better pitch with the slab above...but I'm not the bolt placing kinda guy.

So LCC Climber's comment about the bolt is unrelated to the Tourist Trap variation.
Is The Tourist Trap a new variation with a new bolt, does it use one of the last bolts of the Tingey's Direct variation.

Sounds like it should go back in then. Any thoughts on it?

He He..

No

+1 for no bolt.

I have climbed the groove numerous times, and could never even find the old hole....figured it was a typo.

"I broke the bolt when I fell on it in the 1990s."

oh jeez...here we go again.

Ahhh. I get it now. I was wondering about the fantasmagorical version of undocumented events. The cryptic deletion of posts and the really bad bolt icons on the photos.

Here we go again...

NOOOOOOOOOOO! Tene, say it isn't so!

Prolly saw it after that 2007 comment but positive it was there. Climbed the variation again 2 weeks ago and we couldn't find it.

"This pitch was put up ground first."

Whatever. Looks like the same terrain I lead 10 years ago on gear, as I'm sure many others have. No bolts needed or wanted.

It would take a serious pair to lead that on (no) gear. It's still pretty ricey and there's a lot of ground to cover between the trees and the groove.
I say leave it (I don't consider that double standard). If the FA objects, pull it and it will never be done again. Tingeys will be a wandering annoying route again.

Does this have anything to do with the mystery bolt? Wouldn't that be a different line? Seems like TP's line if further out right...

It would be cool if John can get up there and verify. Some of the pictures posted are misleading about where the climb goes.The line of bolts moves left from the start. Could be Tourist Trap Direct too? I agree with TP though, if we bolted John's 5.7X I'll help pull and patch.

So do you sign your checks with "TP in SLC?" Just sayin... As for your line, it was fun and separate from The Groove me thinks..hope thats not what all the hoopla about the groove bolt discussion was about. I wouldn'ta done it w/o bolts. Seems there are other "developers" in LCC more deserving of criticism.

If I may, I would like to shed some light on this subject.

One fine fall afternoon, Tim and myself decided to climb Tingeys Terror. I led Tarzan, up to the base of Tingeys. Tim did the next pitch. In his studies of the route, he switched the route description. Tim thought the book said "traverse right, then up" not climb up, then traverse right. He took us to the start of this route by mistake. I felt we were off route, but Tim was ADAMANT that the route he took was correct. After 20 minutes of trying to see where the route went, I went straight up, eventually reaching the Fudd ledge. As far as Tim and myself knew, we were on Tingeys. That is the short version.

At this moment I want to offer my sincere apologies to the climbers of the wasatch. Last week a friend asked me to share my memories of climbing in Little Cottonwood Canyon. I just shared with a friend an embarrassing mistake I made early in my climbing years. I am sorry that this story is out, I am sorry to all involved that this became an issue at all. I was not looking for a first ascent then, and I am not looking for one now. I never meant to step on anyones toes. Once again, I am sorry.

I see that this web site lists us as the FA party. While flattering, by no means is it necessary or wanted.
Biossal said it best:"I say leave it (I don't consider that double standard). If the FA objects, pull it and it will never be done again. Tingeys will be a wandering annoying route again."
PLEASE, Leave it as it is, and have it be a climb that people WANT to do. I feel its very selfish to ask the great people who equipped this route to remove it, just because I feel others should suffer from "problems" like I did back then. If you want to lead it as I did, then don't clip the bolts, no one is making you......