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 ADVANCED
Parking Lot Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Crack of Despair T 
Fancy Footwork TR 
Finger Tricks TR 
Good Book T,TR 
Laughing Man TR 
Slippery When Wet T 
Tincture of Benzoin T,TR 
Unknown 5.5  T 
Unknown 5.5 Crack T 
Unknown 5.7 TR 

Tincture of Benzoin 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 325
Submitted By: Chris Gesek on Oct 21, 2012

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Description 

Start 15 ft right of the Slippery When Wet crack. Make a few thin moves up to a nice horizontal, continue up and left to another horizontal and up to the top.

Protection 

Typically toproped, but a reasonable lead for a solid 5.9 leader. The crux is well protected. Small to medium cams.


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By sara pax
From: western mass
Jul 24, 2014

This is actually a really nice and adequately protectable lead for someone solid in the grade. I think I used a couple c4's in horizontals with a green alien to protect the crux.
By Brian
From: North Kingstown, RI
Jul 25, 2014

Yup...and an attentive belayer standing close to the cliff with no slack in the rope. If you were to blow it at the second horizontal before placing gear you would deck. But as you said, it shouldn't be a problem for a solid 5.9 leader.

There are a number of good leads at Ross that seldom get led. Maybe Connecticut top-rope mentality or maybe because Nichols chopped the few supplemental bolts needed to make a run-out lead a safe one.