Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
(06) The Dihedral Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Baba Louie S 
Classic Jam Crack T 
Green Eggs and Ham S 
Lucky Boy S 
Quickdraw McGraw S 
Smoked Salmon T 
Stick Fort S 
Tina's Rig S 

Tina's Rig 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, Chipped, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Tina?
Page Views: 194
Submitted By: LeeAB on Jun 8, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Description 

Two drilled pockets in the first two low bulges detract from this routes quality. Several other holds have been heavily comfortized, whiched based on how sharp the non-cofortized holds in the slabby section are, is probably a good thing.

A long pull low off of the first drilled pocket which is very tight for two fingers, more like one and a pad, clears the first bulge. Then a serise of compresion moves starting with the second drilled out hold leads past a very difficult 4th clip, which is easier once you are well past it. A slabby section allows one to recover and a final fun bulge on big holds leads to the anchors.

Location 

First route right of the most obvious dihedral (Green Eggs and Ham). Starts over 2 low bulges in the first 15 feet.

Protection 

7 bolts and chain achors.


Comments on Tina's Rig Add Comment
Show which comments
By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Jun 8, 2009

I belive it is possible to climb this route without the two chipped holds and it would be about 5.13- to 5.13.