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Orange Crush
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Original Orange Crush, The T 
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Tin Monkeys 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Dave Graham
Page Views: 3,116
Submitted By: Zach Landis on Nov 8, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Nancy Lane midway through Tin Monkeys

Description 

NOTE: Upgraded from 13a to 13b due to a hold breaking in 2010.

Commence this merry link-up by mounting the first crux of Tin Man, then mop up by devouring the meat and potatoes of Flying Monkeys. Some relish this route more than either of it's forebears because it is somewhat more direct, and circumnavigates both the unwieldy finish of Tin Man, and circuitous traverse start to Flying Monkeys. Prepare for adversity in the low crux, as a key undercling has exfoliated of late.


Location 

Upper left Orange Crush, climb off a man-made ledge. Just to the right of Orangahang.


Protection 

10 bolts



Photos of Tin Monkeys Slideshow Add Photo
Andy on the knee bar rest, with the linkup traverse clearly shown
Andy on the knee bar rest, with the linkup travers...
Hayyyyiiiahh!
Hayyyyiiiahh!
Andy Neuman on the flying Monkeys crux portion.
Andy Neuman on the flying Monkeys crux portion.
Nancy Lane on the shared start of Tin Man and Tin Monkeys - Henry Miller(Keith Becconsall) belaying
Nancy Lane on the shared start of Tin Man and Tin ...
Andy on the link up traverse
Andy on the link up traverse
Comments on Tin Monkeys Add Comment
Show which comments
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Nov 9, 2006
rating: 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c

Dave Graham snagged the first ascent of the link up. Though I bolted it as my original intended line in this section, I found that what turned into Tin Man and Flying Monkeys were actually easier lines so I climbed them first. If you like steep, this makes a good intro 13a, especially with a kneepad on the left leg.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Oct 3, 2007
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

great description...

By Daryl St. Laurent
May 1, 2010

A key hold broke off today (the big pinch between the 4th and 5th bolts), so the climb is probably significantly harder now

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Jul 19, 2010
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

Some people have argued that now this route is "hard 13a" since the hold broke off. I think it is harder than that because the hold that broke was huge. It left behind a tweaky undercling and a definite crux. Before, the route was all about having the endurance to hang on. Now it seems to be about having both the endurance and the power to pull hard on that undercling. Methinks 13b.

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jul 19, 2010
rating: 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c

Did it screw up Tin Man also? All right, nobody over 165 lbs on my sport routes, please

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Jul 19, 2010
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

Yes, Tin Man is definitely harder now.

By Daryl St. Laurent
Aug 2, 2010

I did Tin Monkeys with the new beta on Saturday. There are other ways of doing it to avoid the undercling. I did a dyno with my left hand on the top of the big sidepull at the 4th bolt. It's a powerful move but a lot of fun

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Aug 2, 2010
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

That's cool. I didn't try a dyno. I would argue that it's still harder, though. The moves at that spot didn't used to be very hard.

By Roy Quanstrom
Feb 2, 2011

Hey so i'm from Gunnison Colorado, and i'm picking my girlfriend up at UVM at the start of the summer. While i'm in the area I really wanna check out some good east coast climbing and some of my friends here at western state college said that this was the place. What are some of the most classic 5.13's in this area

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Feb 2, 2011
rating: 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c

This one is good. Also on this wall, Dynosoar 13a and Predator 13a/b are pretty classic.

Over on the New Wave wall, I think Dark Star 13c is really good if you like 20 degree overhanging face climbing. The extension finish Strict Scrutiny bumps it up a letter. Get on it early in the morning before it gets blasting in the sun or end of day.

Of course you can't miss Waimea Cliff. Pretty much all the full length routes there are fantastic, especially Urban Surfer and Barracuda and the various variations (13b and up). I really liked Corral Sea 13b (finish out the Man Overboard roof as an alt finish) and Cote D'Azure, both 13bs. Waimea also has some super good 12s that shouldn't be missed.

The Main Cliff may still be closed for the peregrines, but if not, it has 3 really good 13s , Thin Man 13a/b, Rocket Man 13c and Beat Junkie 13b. I never finished Beat Junkie, but it looks incredible and everybody raves about it. This cliff is a big sun bowl, so you either have to give a quick burn early in the morning or wait until the end of the day when the sun is off it and the rock has cooled.

If you are into shorter, steep, power endurance, Monsters from the Id Crag has some good hard routes including the 13b steep crack Journy to the Mushroom Planet. Also of note there are Parallel Universe 13d and Feeding Frenzy 13c/d

That should keep you busy. There are others, but those are ones that stand out to me atm. It depends how much time you have, but you shouldn't miss seeing Waimea, Orange Crush (New Wave is connected to it's right side), Monsters and the Main Cliff if it is open

-Of course you could use this site to pick them out for you. www.mountainproject.com/scripts/Search.php?searchType=routeF>>>