Tin Man 5.13a
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch |
| Consensus: | 5.13a [details] |
| FA: | Mark Sprague, 1998 |
| Submitted By: | Jen Lloyd on Nov 17, 2006 |
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Jen Lloyd contorting her way out the steep ramp
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Description Above the two eyebolt belay anchor, climb up the steep wall on positive holds to a long move up and right to a good rail. WAIT! The rail fell off! The new beta for this section apparently involves a V6 (at least) boulder problem, making this formerly 5.12d route more like 13a. I'll have to get out there and try it soon to give a better description. (Feel free to comment if you've been on this route post-broken-hold and have something to add.) After the new boulder problem, establish a good left kneebar for a rest, then continue up the overhanging corner/ramp through a series of marginal kneebars and contorted body positions. Perch on a small ledge above this system for a bit of a rest, then pump through the last steep section on good holds to clip the last bolt of Orangahang, then the anchor.
Protection 10 bolts (fixed) to Lower Offs.
Jen techniqueing the ramp
| The first kneebar shake after the boulder problem ...
| More ramp funkyness - Jen Lloyd
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By Andrew Freeman From: Brookline, MA Jun 21, 2010 rating: 5.12d
| Broken now? Harder perhaps? Rumors and innuendo? |
By M Sprague Administrator From: New England Jun 22, 2010
| Apparently, a big pinch ripped off from the section just before you get to the ramp, so both this route and Tin Monkeys are going to be harder. If anybody does them, please let us know what you think. |
By jedidiah Aug 17, 2010
| so I did tin man last sat. in my opinion it is harder than kundilini, but softer than the linkup. not as pumpy as dinosaur but the moves felt harder. the new boulder problem feels at least v6. |
By lee hansche Administrator From: goffstown, nh Oct 12, 2011
| i hear 13a or 13b since the broken hold... it would be cool if this description and grade could be updated... |
By Jen Lloyd From: Orange, VT Oct 20, 2011
| Kind of hard to update the description having not climbed the new sequence. Also impossible to suggest a grade. I made updates based on the above comments but actually the route was downgraded to 12c/d in Ward's new guidebook so if the boulder problem really is "only" V6 maybe 12d is still accurate. Like I said I have no personal experience to base this on (YET). Maybe I have a new re-project (retropoint?) Mark, thanks for posting those photos! You must have dug those out of the archives from '06 or '07? I had forgotten you took them. |
By M Sprague Administrator From: New England Oct 20, 2011
| You are very welcome. Yup, aug '07. I had forgotten I had them too, but found them while poking through my files. Here are a couple more from the series. I really liked this route when I put it up. The start reminds me of Red River Gorge climbing, then the bouldery section just before the ramp was powerful and body intensive. The ramp is harder than it looks, requiring subtle foot placements to get the kneebars, and big barndoory crossovers. I watched Vadim V. spanking himself on this when he wasn't seeing the kneebars. The finish is nice pumpy jugs. |
By Jen Lloyd From: Orange, VT Oct 20, 2011
| Yeah, it kind of looks like you could just walk up the ramp, doesn't it? The handholds all seem to be turned the wrong way, if I remember correctly. It's a really fun route to figure out! |
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