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Tin Man 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E6 6c

Type: Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Mark Sprague, 1998
Page Views: 1,900
Submitted By: Jen Lloyd on Nov 17, 2006
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More ramp funkyness
Climber - Jen Lloyd

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NOTE: Upgraded from 12d to 13a due to a hold breaking in 2010.

Above the two eyebolt belay anchor, climb up the steep wall on positive holds to a long move up and right to a good rail. WAIT! The rail fell off! The new beta for this section apparently involves a V6/7 boulder problem, making this formerly 5.12d route more like 13a. I'll have to get out there and try it soon to give a better description. (Feel free to comment if you've been on this route post-broken-hold and have something to add.) After the new boulder problem, establish a good left kneebar for a rest, then continue up the overhanging corner/ramp through a series of marginal kneebars and contorted body positions. Perch on a small ledge above this system for a bit of a rest, then pump through the last steep section on good holds to clip the last bolt of Orangahang, then the anchor.


10 bolts (fixed) to Lower Offs.

Photos of Tin Man Slideshow Add Photo
The first kneebar shake after the boulder problem - climber - Jen Lloyd
The first kneebar shake after the boulder problem ...
Jen techniqueing the ramp
Jen techniqueing the ramp
Jen Lloyd contorting her way out the steep ramp
Jen Lloyd contorting her way out the steep ramp
Comments on Tin Man Add Comment
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By Andrew Freeman
From: Brookline, MA
Jun 21, 2010
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b

Broken now? Harder perhaps? Rumors and innuendo?

By M Sprague
From: New England
Jun 22, 2010

Apparently, a big pinch ripped off from the section just before you get to the ramp, so both this route and Tin Monkeys are going to be harder. If anybody does them, please let us know what you think.

By jedidiah
Aug 17, 2010

so I did tin man last sat. in my opinion it is harder than kundilini, but softer than the linkup. not as pumpy as dinosaur but the moves felt harder. the new boulder problem feels at least v6.

By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Oct 12, 2011
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ E6 6c

i hear 13a or 13b since the broken hold... it would be cool if this description and grade could be updated...

By Jen Lloyd
From: Orange, VT
Oct 20, 2011

Kind of hard to update the description having not climbed the new sequence. Also impossible to suggest a grade. I made updates based on the above comments but actually the route was downgraded to 12c/d in Ward's new guidebook so if the boulder problem really is "only" V6 maybe 12d is still accurate. Like I said I have no personal experience to base this on (YET). Maybe I have a new re-project (retropoint?)
Mark, thanks for posting those photos! You must have dug those out of the archives from '06 or '07? I had forgotten you took them.

By M Sprague
From: New England
Oct 20, 2011

You are very welcome. Yup, aug '07. I had forgotten I had them too, but found them while poking through my files. Here are a couple more from the series.

I really liked this route when I put it up. The start reminds me of Red River Gorge climbing, then the bouldery section just before the ramp was powerful and body intensive. The ramp is harder than it looks, requiring subtle foot placements to get the kneebars, and big barndoory crossovers. I watched Vadim V. spanking himself on this when he wasn't seeing the kneebars. The finish is nice pumpy jugs.

By Jen Lloyd
From: Orange, VT
Oct 20, 2011

Yeah, it kind of looks like you could just walk up the ramp, doesn't it? The handholds all seem to be turned the wrong way, if I remember correctly. It's a really fun route to figure out!

By twellman
Aug 27, 2013

It seems the Tin Man is now missing his "heart"... how fitting.