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 ADVANCED
West Slabs
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
1978 Bracksieck/Mallow Route T 
BLM (aka, Bolt Like Mad) S 
Hwan Kap T,TR 
Left-facing Dihedral T 
Shaft, The S 
Tin Can Arete T,TR 
Unknown 2nd 9 T,S 
Unknown 5 T,S 
Unknown 7+ T,S 
Unknown 9 T,S 
Unknown 9+ T,S 

Tin Can Arete 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 105'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Doug Redosh, LP?
Page Views: 117
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Aug 9, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: To go where no idiot has gone before.

Description 

This pitch takes on the featured slab to the right of the left-facing dihedral of 1978 Bracksieck/Mallow Route in an exploring but non-demanding pitch that begs to done to a climber who hears certain less common tones. It may be on the lean side of a star.

You can access this from a variety of pitches. We traversed to it from the top of the Unknown 2nd 9, but a more reasonable way may be to go from the top of the 2nd pitch of the 1978 Bracksieck/Mallow Route route or doing Left-facing Dihedral and the 4 bolt slab or Unknown 5 to its right.

From the 2 bolt anchor, move right enough to find easy holds on angled horizontals. Wander upwards to the ledge above passing a couple rusted tin cans. Belay at the 2 bolt anchor in a right-facing nook.

Rap 4 times (with a short rope) off double bolt anchors or rap 2 times with a 70m rope.

Clearly this could have been ascended previously, and its history may be lost to the effect of age and the human condition. If you know of its prior ascent, let me know, and I'll update it accordingly.

Location 

This is right of the left-facing dihedral of the 1978 Bracksieck/Mallow Route.

Protection 

A rack to a #3 Camalot can work.


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By Doug Redosh
Aug 9, 2014

Leo can take all the credit for this one. Needs a little traffic to clean it up. Would be a nice linkup with the 5.5 route below for a 5.5 trad leader.