Tin Can Arete
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BETA PHOTO: To go where no idiot has gone before.
This pitch takes on the featured slab to the right of the left-facing dihedral of 1978 Bracksieck/Mallow Route
in an exploring but non-demanding pitch that begs to done to a climber who hears certain less common tones. It may be on the lean side of a star.
You can access this from a variety of pitches. We traversed to it from the top of the Unknown 2nd 9
, but a more reasonable way may be to go from the top of the 2nd pitch of the 1978 Bracksieck/Mallow Route
doing Left-facing Dihedral
and the 4 bolt slab or Unknown 5
to its right.
From the 2 bolt anchor, move right enough to find easy holds on angled horizontals. Wander upwards to the ledge above passing a couple rusted tin cans. Belay at the 2 bolt anchor in a right-facing nook.
Rap 4 times (with a short rope) off double bolt anchors or rap 2 times with a 70m rope.
Clearly this could have been ascended previously, and its history may be lost to the effect of age and the human condition. If you know of its prior ascent, let me know, and I'll update it accordingly.
A rack to a #3 Camalot can work.
By Doug Redosh
Aug 9, 2014
Leo can take all the credit for this one. Needs a little traffic to clean it up. Would be a nice linkup with the 5.5 route below for a 5.5 trad leader.