|Type: ||Trad, 6 pitches, 500', Grade III|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]|
|FA: ||FA: Urioste, Ward, Bradley FFA: Harrison, Smith|
|Page Views: ||1,922|
|Submitted By: ||beny on Feb 17, 2007|
|Good Page?||0 people like this page. Your opinion: |
Jorge/Joanne Urioste quarter incher on Time's Up.
Time's Up is the sister route to Nightcrawler, taking on the left side of the Hourglass feature. Start the route by scrambling up easy, low-angled rock as high as comfortable before roping up.
It seems that the red book left out a pitch in the description, so I'll just describe the route as the anchors are setup. See the notes below regarding linkups, etc.
P1: Start on a face and crack that leads up to the left side of the Hourglass. Parts of this pitch are in a shallow left-facing corner; others are on a looser face with cracks. The pitch ends at a 2-bolt anchor. 100 ft, 5.9.
P2: Continue up the cracks and corner with the corner becoming steeper. The rock quality is questionable in spots, but overall a good pitch. Finish up by moving a bit right and mantling onto a good ledge with two bolts (1/4"). 90 ft, 5.10a.
P3: Step right to the chimney/wide crack that faces left. The bolt frequency really starts to pick up here. Follow the crack from chimney to fists, where it suddenly tapers to tips (purple tcu). Utilize face holds to stem up the corner, eventually stepping right to a stance on the arete with a few bolts. 50 ft, 5.10+.
P4: The business. Step back left into a chimney. Wiggle a short distance to its end and move into a layback to overcome a chockstone. Continue up the wide crack as it leans and widens to a bomb bay chimney. Move out left with the chimney to a roof with a perfect dihedral above it. Exiting the roof may remind you of southeast roof climbing, but without the spiders and bugs. The dihedral above the roof is the crux and is desperately thin in places. Thankfully, between all the old bolts and a few spots that widen up, pro is good. You'll find a 2-bolt anchor 25 ft over the roof in a cramped corner with a small roof overhead. This is a horrible belay- see suggestions below for how to avoid it. 110 ft, 5.11+.
P5: As good as the previous 2 pitches were, this one is at the other end of the spectrum. Stem up out of the horrible hanging belay, praying a hold doesn't break and you land on your belayer. Pass several bolts and disgusting rotten rock, eventually reaching better rock. An offwidth roof formed by a left-facing flake should be looming over you at this point. Climb up to the roof, then move right a few steps, following the old bolts out onto an easy face. Follow this to the top of the pillar and a great ledge. Alternatively, you could always go left out the roof and follow the flake/dihedral to the ledge. Either way, this pitch is anything but spectacular and is a major disappointment after the 2 prior pitches. 160 ft, 5.10-.
P6: Climb P5 of Nightcrawler- splitter crack to a roof, then up right over a roof to an anchor. 80 ft, 5.8R.
Notes: P1,2 are easy linkups if you start the route from a high ledge. A 60m cord reaches just barely. One of the lower pitches seems to be left-out in the red book. Hopefully, you won't be confused by the discrepancy between this description and the guide. There are many, many bolts on the crux pitches. Expect to need to clip some unless you're a stud on the rp action. To avoid the horrible belay stance on top of P4, climb past the 2 bolt anchor. Stop about 25 ft into pitch 5 at a stance on black rock with a bolt a few feet above. Save a piece or two in the 1/2"-1" range to back up the bolt. This still isn't a great spot, but its works better than the standard belay. P3,4 are excellent pitches and if it wasn't for the pitches above, this route would be 4 stars.
This route is on the Brownstone wall. It is the prominent left-facing corner that makes up the left side of the Hourglass feature. It gets good morning and early afternoon sun.
While there are many bolts on this route (p3,4 have a bolt almost every body length), they are almost all 1/4" with homemade hangers. If you trust them, you can get away with a small rack and lots of draws. Otherwise, a single set of cams from 00 metolius to 5 friend, rps, and lots of draws are recomended. Most of the belays have at least one newer 3/8" bolt. 2 60m cords are needed to rap down The Nightcrawler.
Steven on pitch 3, Time's Up. One of the best 11's...
Abel in the bomb bay chimney section of the 11d pi...
Monica leading the 11a pitch of Time's Up.
Steven on P4, Time's Up. The technical well protec...
From: Petaluma California
Apr 3, 2010
The belays are good, but pro bolts are all old. I tested a few with falls on the crux pitch.Really excellent striking line. The initial wide lay back on the crux pitch, and a very thin section up high are probably 11+. I climbed the face right on the last pitch. Good alligator skin, no pro, 5.7
|By SexPanther aka Kiedis|
Nov 5, 2011
The FFA on this thing has been pretty sorely disputed over the years. I sat down with Joanne and she looked me in the eyes and claimed it, and I believe her. The free ascent was put up with Mike Ward, who led the first ascent of Smears for Fears (runout 11c way-thin face, put up in old-school hardman ground-up style). The combined experience and knowledge of the route picked up while doing the bolting on the push that preceded the FFA with Jorge and Bill Bradley seems to me sufficient to prepare the FA party, who both have 5.11 FAs on their resumes, for a solid ascent. Shortly after, Time's Up was also freed by Richard Harrison and Jay Smith, who approached the climb as an onsight. They were pretty puzzled by the style of the route but pulled off a quick send and reported that it was "pretty hard". No doubt a beta-less, ground-up free push was more mentally taxing than a well-informed send by a team that had spent time on the route learning the intricacies of the rock and protection, and is worthy of respect. But first is first.
Anyone attempting this route really needs to consider that the bolts on this route are at a bodyweight stage in their age, these are quarter-inch bolts that are VERY old, and should be viewed as similar in strength to a semi-decent fixed copperhead. Until the route is replaced, this climb should be approached with caution and respect.
|By Abel Jones|
From: Hickory, NC
Feb 23, 2013
You can rap this route with a single 80m.
|By Rob Fielding|
From: Las Vegas, NV
Apr 24, 2013
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a
This route has recently been replaced. Another classic Urisote route which has lost sight because of the old quarter inch bolts. The two 11 corners are fantastic, exposed, and technical on excellent rock.
When I spoke with Joanne, she was adamant about 1 to 1 replacement referring to this route as "her baby." Unfortunately, we didn't have enough time or will power to replace every bolt on this route. We did our best to choose the bolts that were not able to protect w/ natural gear first.
This route was put up after the Nightcrawler in 1984. Handren states in his guidebook, "Although it could be adequately protected w/ natural gear, it was almost fully bolted on the fa, creating an unusual route w/ sport climbing protection but all the features found on a classic crack climb." please refer to Larry DeAngelo's comments on the Nightcrawler for historical perspective. mountainproject.com/v/the-nightcrawler/105920684
All anchors on this route have been setup for rappel. Every anchor was replaced w/ 1 or 2 1/2" SS 5 piece bolts coupled w/ the 3/8" metolius bolts that were already in place.
Pitch 1: A little different than the guidebook. Scramble up to the left facing corner. Climb the corner midway through and then head right over the arete onto the face where the protection is good. Going straight up the corner looks thin and unprotected.
Pitch 2: Straight up the corner with a 5.10 move near the quarter incher, adequate gear below and above. Really nice pitch.
Pitch 3: Four pro bolts replaced, three initially off the belay and one up higher. A #3 will place nicely at the 4th bolt (quarter incher) and for the tips section two green c3's or size equivalent. A mixture of liebacking, offwidth, and techy climbing in the dihedral.
Pitch 4: Twelve pro bolts replaced. If climbing conservative, bring a # 3 for the chimney section, med sized nut for the roof, and a # 2 near the quarter incher. Don't forget to sling the last bolt before the roof section. If climbing P5, i'd highly recommend belaying underneath the roof (at the anchor) to avoid any potential rock fall on the next pitch.
Pitch 5: Five pro bolts replaced, most of them initially off the belay. The rock significantly deteriorates at this point, but I thought it was worth doing once and wouldn't do it again. Link it to the top of P6.
Pitch 6: For the sixth pitch, you can avoid the R corner system by jumping out on the face to the right w/ easy 5.6/7 climbing and some occasional gear.
For conservative rack bring single to 3", doubles from thin to 0.5" and you could easily get away w/ just a single rack to 3. You can rap w/ a 70m rope no problem and probably even a 60, but we didn't try it. The rope pulls very smoothly.
NOTE: The old quarter inch bolts are dangerous at their age and probably won't hold a fall. Back them up or risk the consequences of a long whipper :)
Consider a donation to the ASCA. If it wern't for them, big projects like this would most likely not be done.
Dec 2, 2013
Minus the copious amount of bolts...new, shinny bolts...a truly rad climb. I'd recommend it to anybody. Awesome first few pitches, then an offwidth to chimney to roof to thin stemming...all in one pitch!
I will ad, however, that anyone with even a hint of traditional ethic will find the route quite horribly over-bolted. I clipped tightly spaced bolts in a super clean corner crack, then a chimney, and then essentially top-roped my way through the crux, as the bolts are so close. Come to think of it, it's the hardest, coolest climb I've ever onsighted, but I felt as accomplished as I do after a successful grocery run.
Any sense of adventure or commitment has been completely murdered on this one, which is too bad because it's one hell of a beautiful line.
|By Nelson Day|
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Jan 20, 2014
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a
Good beta on gear (double up to 0.5, single up to BD3). I took a double rack of aliens and single 0.75, 1, 2, 3. Lots of slings (I took 14). Did to the top of pitch 4. All excellent pitches! Thank you for the bolt replacement
From: a car ...or tent.
Feb 21, 2014
Pitch 1 and 2 were alright, nothing special.
Pitch 3 and 4 were great climbing, incredibly fun, and bolted well enough to not need any gear at all. I did place a #3 C4 in the chimney on P4, but it was more to get rid of it before I squeezed in the chimney. The rock quality, mostly on the top dihedral is pretty suspect. Two fairly key flakes feel like they are about to peel off.
Gear: I was fine with bringing draws (~15) and a single set of cams smallish to #1 C4 and a #3 for the optional placement on P4. If you don't like to run it out on easier ground maybe some wires and more cams.