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 ADVANCED
Castle Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Acro-Ace, The 
Acro-Aerial, The 
Acrobatic Overhang 
Aid Roof 
Altered-Acro 
Athlete's Feat T 
Atlas Shrugged T 
Bailey's Overhang T 
Beetle Bailey S 
Big Deal Pinnacle (AKA: Square Diehl) T 
Big Splash, The S 
Black Crack, The T 
Boot Lead T,TR 
By Gully T 
Cadaver Crack T 
Cage Free 
Campaigner, The T 
Circadian Rhythms T 
Citadel V1 
Citadel, The 
Close To the Edge S 
Coffin Crack T 
Comeback Crack T 
Country Club Crack T 
Crank It (aka Slabio) S 
Curving Crack T 
Cussin' Crack T 
Cussing Fingers Variant T 
Deadline T,S 
Deersquatch T,TR 
Direct Start T 
Dropout Option T 
E-Z Action T 
Englishman's Home T 
Final Exam T 
Flow, The 
Free Range 
Gill Crack, The T,TR 
Gluten Free T,S 
Hardboiled 
Hit Hard Tactics 
Invisible Idiot T,TR 
Jackson's Wall T 
Jackson's Wall Direct T 
Knight With a Shining Stick 
Mexican Picnic T 
Midnight Express 
Never a Dull Moment T 
Nintendo 
No Fly Zone T 
Nobody's Home T 
One 
Pass Fail Option T 
Polyester Leisure Suit T,S,TR 
Queen is Dead, The T 
Rebellion T 
Replacement Killers, The 
Skunk Crack T 
Smokey the Bandit 
South Face T 
Standard Bulge 
Sting, The T 
Stingay T 
Storming the Castle S 
Subterranean Homesick Blues T,S 
Surface Tension (aka Two) 
Times Past T 
Tongo T 
Tourist Extravagance S 
Trainspotting 
Water World T,S 
West Face T 
West Face, Direct Start T 

Times Past 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: A. Sharpe, M. Sharpe, A. Dale, 1980
Page Views: 452
Submitted By: Tony B on May 21, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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BETA PHOTO: Castle Rock's West Face

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route lies on the Big Deal Pinnacle of Castle Rock, just right of Polyester Leisure Suit and some ways left of Curving Crack. To find this route, pull into Castle Rock from the highway and park just aside of it shortly after pulling in. Where the slope of the hill between the rock and the "driveway" disappear where rock is level with road for the first bit, you will see a pinnacle standing perhaps 130' tall against the main rock, as a buttress at the bottom, and as a needle at the top. A reasonably large pine is seen halfway up the tower. The left side of this pinnacle holds the Route Polyester Leisure Suit (11b, in attached photo), Just right of that large roof lies a discontinuous set of finger cracks through a bulge that wraps around the right side of the aforementioned pinnacle at mid-height.

Start climbing in an obtuse corner, using face holds for lack of a crack. Early on you will find a few small stopper placements (OK) and then a medium/large placement (good). Get these in and continue upward to a short, wide-hands jam (place a 3" piece here) and then two chalked-up finger-locks below the small, A-shaped roof. You can place a stopper easily within the first finger-lock, but getting one in the second is strenuous and will take the crux hold away. At this point, the gear is reasonable, but hard to get and the crux is next. Pull the A-shaped roof on face holds or an awkward jam (can take a #3.5 Camalot or 3.8 HB in a 5" section of crack in the bulge) and up over. Continue up discontinuous seams up and right until you are level with the rap-station (tree with webbing and rings/quicklink). Belay here then rap to the ground. Lowering off is not recommended for the sake of your rope.

The route was more awkward then I generally expect at the 5.9 grade, although the climbing was not terribly tricky or powerful. The gear was not forthcoming in some spots, and a ground fall would be possible from several places on the climb. Wandering round more maybe could have given me more gear.

The climb merits a star, as I was OK with having done it, no regrets... Still, if you have not done the others at Castle Rock, save this one until you are deep into your tick list or are really bored; there are many better lines there.

Protection 

A few small nuts, a few medium nuts, and a 3.5" cam (yellow HB or #3 or #4 Camalot). Several 2' slings for chickenheads.


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