Time Wave Zero

Time Wave Zero is one of the most coveted routes in Potrero Chico and one of the longest sport climbs in the world. 

23 "official" pitches, lengths and bolt counts are approximate. 70m rope required!!

P1) 5.7 100' (4 bolts) Easy slab up to a small ledge. There is a high line anchor between bolts 2 and 3.
P2) 5.11a 95' (9 bolts) More easy slab to a short overhang (crux).
P3) 5.9- 100' (8 bolts) Easy slab to a ledge to belay.
P4) 5.9- 100' (7 bolts) More easy slab to another good ledge.
P5) 5.10a 100' (8 bolts) More easy slab to a small stance belay. It is possible to link 5,6, and 7 with a 70M rope.
P6) 5.9- 110' (9 bolts) A long traverse to the left to a small ledge.
P7) 5.7 45' (3 bolts) Ramble up to a massive ledge.
P8) 2nd class Walk up to the base of the next step section.
P9) 5.9+ 100' (10 bolts) Slab leads to steep pockets, belay at a small ledge under roof. Possible to link with 10.
P10) 5.10b 70' (6 bolts) Climb the steep corner. Belay at dedicated belay anchor on a good ledge.
P11) 5.9 130' (11 bolts) Climb past rappel anchor to a second anchor at an ok stance.
P12) 5.7 60' (2 bolts) Ramble up to the bivy ledge.
P13) 5.8 100' (6 bolts) Traverse right off the bivy, belay at an ok stance.
P14) 5.9 100' (6 bolts) Continue up slabs to a good small ledge.
P15) 5.10a 100' (9 bolts) Slabs lead to a roof, belay at a small stance just above.
P16) 5.10d 80' (6 bolts) Climb up to a slabby cruz below a roof. Belay on a good, small ledge.
P17) 5.9+ 115' (10 bolts) Traverse up and left to an awkward mantle. Then technical slab takes you to a great ledge.
P18) 5.9+ 90' (8 bolts) Climb past rappel anchor then traverse left to belay anchor at small ledge.
P19) 5.9+ 60' (6 bolts) Technical slab takes you to a belay where the wall steepens.
P20) 5.10d 90' (7 bolts) Traverse right, then up a slightly overhung, sustained pitch to a comfy ledge below the 12a.
P21) 5.12a/b (5.11- A0) 90' (10 bolts) Stout for the grade, but easy to aid. The bolts in the crux are very closely spaced, and easily aidable. Next three bolts to the top are spaced further and require 11a-ish climbing.
P22) 5.9 100' (7 bolts) Steep. Sharp and a bit awkward. Belay on the ridge crest.
P23) 5.3 130' (6 bolts) Scramble up the ridge. There is sometimes a fixed line on this. This pitch traverses so you should plan to belay up and down it.

Hike past the Spires as for the Surf Bowl and Dihedrals. Just before reaching the Surf Bowl, locate a climber's trail to the right and follow for about 20' to the base of the route. TWZ is the left-most route on the buttress and it’s marked with a nameplate. 

About 18 or so draws if linking pitches.

Rappel the route with a single 70M rope. There is a dedicated rap anchor on pitch 18 to manage the traverse. There is also a dedicated rap anchor below the pitch 10 belay anchor. 

Do not attempt to walk-off this route. There is no trail to the true El Toro summit. Attempting to walk off would involve 4th and 5th class unprotected scrambling on poor quality rock and a long cactus bushwhack and is not recommended. Below the ridges exist many other routes and a dislodged block would endanger climbers below.