This one is the farthest left route on Zen Garden Wall, the far left and upper part of Lost Angel. Scramble down gully to large tree with 2 bolt anchor opposite the tree. Cruise up the perfect hand/finger crack as it gets smaller and turns to seam above...then to blank face with 2 bolts until you reach anchor (~60 feet). You can TR 5 other cracks to the right of this one from the anchor...fun area to practice jamming and slabs....
Light rack to #1 Camalot...HB offsets useful for seam...2 bolts on blank face at top...2 bolt anchor for TR or belay.
Thru the crack portion and onto the face.
|By Darin Lang|
Jun 6, 2001
A great route, and an excellent place, as noted, to practice cracks and slab climbing. You can also TR the slab right off the ledge to the left of Time Traveler (10?).
|By Kreighton Bieger|
Jun 6, 2001
Matt, or someone, can you provide a better description of how to find Zen Garden wall? I have only found it once and it was by accident, but have come up short when I've gone looking for it, from the rim that is. I assume I can get over to it by starting Strange Cargo, or whichever of those 11s is the leftmost. Thanks. KB
|By Matt Bauman|
Jun 7, 2001
Zengarden wall is pretty much exactly across the Dream dome gully from Gully washer route on Dream dome.....you scramble down towards a large pine that is in a small notch at the base of a clean lower angled face (below this is very mossy rock) and to the left of the 3rd pitch of Strange cargo. You can also stay left at the top of DReam dome gully trail and look for a 2 bolt anchor at the top of the lower angled slab .... rappel 60 feet into the notch with the big pine (2 bolt station in this notch opposite the start of Time traveler, an obvious hand crack that heads straight up from the large tree). Rossiters book shows a picture of it and has a good description.
|By Drew Allan|
Jun 28, 2004
Correction to the above description: There is only one bolt on the slab above the seam.
|By George Bell|
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 5, 2006
I found this route fun, but it is not very long, the hard climbing is the first 40 feet or so. High quality, though.
May 23, 2011
Great climb, old school 5.9 that is well-protected. That is more like 75 feet in length. There is only one bolt on the climb after the crux runout easy climbing to the anchor. The book description mentioned two, but I couldn't find the second one. It is located across the gully from the A Brief History of Time that is also 5.9 (much easier).