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Parking Lot Crag
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Time to Shine S 
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Time to Shine 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Jeff Follett, 2006
Page Views: 379
Submitted By: Euan Cameron on Apr 30, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: Unknown G Topo

Description 

Start up the large features below the hanging slab.

At the end of the features get established on the slab with one good small edge for the right hand.

The moves up passed the 4th bolts are tenuous and required technique and good friction conditions.

From the 5th bolt continue directly to the anchors.

Location 

Leftmost route on the south face

Protection 

7 bolts, double mussy hook anchors


Comments on Time to Shine Add Comment
Show which comments
By maggie-girl
Aug 3, 2012

A few years ago, this route didn't go under 12b. Manufactured holds make it go at 5.11 now.
By Mammoth Jeff
Jan 15, 2013

I put this route up in 2006 and went to reinspect it after reading the last post.This route has NO manufactured holds and is still .12- friction climbing. Very sequential, high quality.
By Mammoth Jeff
Jan 28, 2013

"Time To Shine" 5.12- FA 2006 Jeff Follett
By Howie Stern
From: Mammoth Lakes, Ca
Nov 11, 2013

So, how come the last few bolts to the top were removed a few years back? I remember getting on it a long time ago, and it was completely devoid of holds up there to the top...Was it that it really only went to the 7th bolt, or what, and then the rest was arbitrarily bolted hoping it would go?

Just curious...