Time to climb one (maybe 2) routes in Red Rock

There's a good chance I'll be heading down to Vegas for a bachelor party November long weekend. I'm considering heading out to Red Rock for one day (maybe 2) of climbing.

What route(s) should be at the very top of my list? I'll have really limited time so, I'd like to do something classic.

I'm climbing 5.11 in Squamish regularly and have climbed in the Creek (so sandstone isn't totally foreign to me). I'd prefer trad but, am open to sport routes, as well. Definitely multi pitch.

Thoughts?

Thanks in advance for any feedback.

without a doubt, triassic sands... the two .10 pitches are incredible!!

Lone Star or Rainbow Wall Original. both are long great adventures. Lone Star is a lesser traveled climb that has amazing pitch, exposure, and a lot of climbing, 2000ft! Rainbow wall is slightly more difficult, but is very obvious climbing and easily aided of you cant pull a move. a bolt is always there protecting the hardest moves.

If I had just one day at Red Rocks I'd go to Willow Springs and climb a whole bunch of great single pitch routes and play on the boulders.

I don't climb 11's, but Triassic Sands is definitely my favorite route in RR. There's lots of other stuff nearby too to round out the day. Black Orpheus is a close second.

Not a huge fan of Black Orpheus much because it is not sustained. One 5.10 move at most, a big 5th class section, maybe one 5.9 pitch other than that.

Many of us still climb shady routes in Nov. I lived in Canmore for six years myself, you appear to be from Canada...so you should be fine with it depending on conditions.

One of my favorite 5.11's is Cloud Tower (5.11d, 7 Pitches) (in the shade). Just two 5.11 pitches.

Three decent 5.10-11 routes next to each other on the sunniest aspect we have at RR if cold, are Spectrum, 5.11a, 7 Pitches, Brass Balls, 5.10d, 5 Pitches and Orange Clonus, 5.10d, 7 Pitches. They are all worthy, but Spectrum is my favorite because of the fantastical, but short, hanging roof.

Edge of the Sun, 5.10d, 3 Pitches and Five Pack, 5.10b, 4 Pitches are a couple of fun ones to combine for a day (shade).

Tooth or Consequences, 5.11c, 8 Pitches is a really mellow route (two moves at 5.11, otherwise 5.10 down) in a beautiful location (Jet Stream Wall) on the best rock RR has to offer (mix of sun and shade).

Adventure Punks, 5.10d, 5 Pitches, a classic OW route at RR (shade).

Ten Minute Shift, 5.11b, 5 Pitches, a great route to combine with a short classic at RR, Nightcrawler, 5.10, 4 Pitches. (mix of sun and shade)

Eagle Dance, 5.10c, 9 Pitches, most trad climbers like myself prefer it over Levitation (same wall) as it takes a bit more gear, both are worthy (sun)

Resolution Arete, 5.11d, IV-V, a real classic at RR, very few 5.11 moves, mostly mellow alpine route for the competent, efficient party...we did it St. George to St. George in a day. Must do if you are up for it, summit the highest peak at RR then walk off (mix of sun and shade)

Ixtlan, 5.11c, 8 Pitches, my favorite in the Triassic Sands area (Whiskey Peak), but it is considerably harder than Triassic or the others. The 5.11 moves are bolted. The 5.10++ OW is the crux (shade)(I have a great story on the FA for this one!)

Triassic Sands is good...here is one to combine it with for a full day Amber, 5.10c, 4 Pitches (shade)

Dream of Wild Turkeys and Prince of Darkness are well traveled classics....POD is oversold but DOWT, with the Gobbler direct version is a very nice 5.10a route....

Enjoy your trip!

Wow! So many options... :D.

Gonna do some research and try to figure out what to do. Cloud Tower looks badass though!

I just did Adventute Punks on my last trip there. Super fun!!
Eagle Dance and Levitation are also super!!

You should definitely climb at the Magic Bus. It's got an easy approach, fully bolted routes (some with some mixed pro if you're into that sort of thing), great views of the 2nd Pullout, and it's usually crowded. Probably could split up Neon Sunset into two pitches if you wanted to.

Let me add in all seriousness that if you're thinking about climbing the Cloud Tower you definitely should. It's actually quite amenable despite it's lofty difficulty rating and commitment grade (a IV, really?) and Dow advertises it as "only two pitches of 5.11" and that's correct. Those pitches and the remaining pitches are outstanding. Handren gives it the 12a grade... but I wouldn't argue with 11d either on that pitch.

It's an excellent route with some really splitter climbing.

^^^^^^ Neon Sunset as two pitches??? Yeah that sounds pretty rad. Maybe even big wall style.....bring a ledge for god sake!!!
:-D

Princess Mia wrote:^^^^^^ Neon Sunset as two pitches??? Yeah that sounds pretty rad. Maybe even big wall style.....bring a ledge for god sake!!! :-D