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Time to climb one (maybe 2) routes in Red Rock
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By Matt Hoffmann
From Squamish
Oct 2, 2012
© Matt Hoffmann - Matt on 3AM crack
There's a good chance I'll be heading down to Vegas for a bachelor party November long weekend. I'm considering heading out to Red Rock for one day (maybe 2) of climbing.

What route(s) should be at the very top of my list? I'll have really limited time so, I'd like to do something classic.

I'm climbing 5.11 in Squamish regularly and have climbed in the Creek (so sandstone isn't totally foreign to me). I'd prefer trad but, am open to sport routes, as well. Definitely multi pitch.

Thoughts?

Thanks in advance for any feedback.

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By michael rowell
Oct 2, 2012
sail away, joshua tree
without a doubt, triassic sands... the two .10 pitches are incredible!!

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By Ian Cavanaugh
Oct 2, 2012
Lone Star or Rainbow Wall Original. both are long great adventures. Lone Star is a lesser traveled climb that has amazing pitch, exposure, and a lot of climbing, 2000ft! Rainbow wall is slightly more difficult, but is very obvious climbing and easily aided of you cant pull a move. a bolt is always there protecting the hardest moves.

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By John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
Oct 2, 2012
All the routes listed will be in the shade, which in Nov may not really be appealing. Depending on when you come in Nov, I'd expect temps to be in the low 70s, high 60s during the day.

If you're cranking .11 in Squish, you should be fine on .10/.11 here- I find Squamish to be very friendly for the grade most of the time.

Classic Sunny routes (Nov temps may be okay for east facing things too, but north facing stuff will be off the table unless it stays really warm).

Levitation 29- uber-classic 5.11 up on of the cleanest faces in Red Rock. Some people boo-hoo it because of the abundance of bolts, but you can take a 70m, 6 cams, and 18 draws up the thing, which is pretty sweet. Esp due to the 1000' gain you have to deal with on the approach.

Solar Slab/Black Orpheus- one of the two, or both if you're feeling spunky and fast. Mellow , low in the grade, but both are more fun than you can shake a stick at. For added adventure if you want serious mileage, link either of them into Rainbow Buttress, a fun (stout) 5.8 (5.10) adventure up the wall right of Levitation.

Jubilant Song/Hot Fudge Thursday- either of these routes are wicked fun, and very remote. Good way to avoid the crowds on a long weekend and get some very classic climbing in. I'd probably pick Hot Fudge over Jubilant, but both are fantastic.

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By Ed Wright
Oct 2, 2012
Magic Ed
If I had just one day at Red Rocks I'd go to Willow Springs and climb a whole bunch of great single pitch routes and play on the boulders.

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By Tom Fralich
From Fort Collins, CO
Oct 4, 2012
I don't climb 11's, but Triassic Sands is definitely my favorite route in RR. There's lots of other stuff nearby too to round out the day. Black Orpheus is a close second.

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By Dow Williams
From Saint George, UT
Oct 4, 2012
Dow Williams, 2011
Not a huge fan of Black Orpheus much because it is not sustained. One 5.10 move at most, a big 5th class section, maybe one 5.9 pitch other than that.

Many of us still climb shady routes in Nov. I lived in Canmore for six years myself, you appear to be from Canada...so you should be fine with it depending on conditions.

One of my favorite 5.11's is Cloud Tower (5.11d, 7 Pitches) (in the shade). Just two 5.11 pitches.

Three decent 5.10-11 routes next to each other on the sunniest aspect we have at RR if cold, are Spectrum, 5.11a, 7 Pitches, Brass Balls, 5.10d, 5 Pitches and Orange Clonus, 5.10d, 7 Pitches. They are all worthy, but Spectrum is my favorite because of the fantastical, but short, hanging roof.

Edge of the Sun, 5.10d, 3 Pitches and Five Pack, 5.10b, 4 Pitches are a couple of fun ones to combine for a day (shade).

Tooth or Consequences, 5.11c, 8 Pitches is a really mellow route (two moves at 5.11, otherwise 5.10 down) in a beautiful location (Jet Stream Wall) on the best rock RR has to offer (mix of sun and shade).

Adventure Punks, 5.10d, 5 Pitches, a classic OW route at RR (shade).

Ten Minute Shift, 5.11b, 5 Pitches, a great route to combine with a short classic at RR, Nightcrawler, 5.10, 4 Pitches. (mix of sun and shade)

Eagle Dance, 5.10c, 9 Pitches, most trad climbers like myself prefer it over Levitation (same wall) as it takes a bit more gear, both are worthy (sun)

Resolution Arete, 5.11d, IV-V, a real classic at RR, very few 5.11 moves, mostly mellow alpine route for the competent, efficient party...we did it St. George to St. George in a day. Must do if you are up for it, summit the highest peak at RR then walk off (mix of sun and shade)

Ixtlan, 5.11c, 8 Pitches, my favorite in the Triassic Sands area (Whiskey Peak), but it is considerably harder than Triassic or the others. The 5.11 moves are bolted. The 5.10++ OW is the crux (shade)(I have a great story on the FA for this one!)

Triassic Sands is good...here is one to combine it with for a full day Amber, 5.10c, 4 Pitches (shade)

Dream of Wild Turkeys and Prince of Darkness are well traveled classics....POD is oversold but DOWT, with the Gobbler direct version is a very nice 5.10a route....

Enjoy your trip!

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By Matt Hoffmann
From Squamish
Oct 4, 2012
© Matt Hoffmann - Matt on 3AM crack
Wow! So many options... :D.

Gonna do some research and try to figure out what to do. Cloud Tower looks badass though!

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By Princess Mia
From Vail
Oct 4, 2012
Chillin' at City of Rocks
I just did Adventute Punks on my last trip there. Super fun!!
Eagle Dance and Levitation are also super!!

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By Andy Hansen
From Longmont, Colorado
Oct 4, 2012
Intruder, 5.11+. Zion National Park. Photo: Matt Kuehl
You should definitely climb at the Magic Bus. It's got an easy approach, fully bolted routes (some with some mixed pro if you're into that sort of thing), great views of the 2nd Pullout, and it's usually crowded. Probably could split up Neon Sunset into two pitches if you wanted to.

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By Andy Hansen
From Longmont, Colorado
Oct 4, 2012
Intruder, 5.11+. Zion National Park. Photo: Matt Kuehl
Let me add in all seriousness that if you're thinking about climbing the Cloud Tower you definitely should. It's actually quite amenable despite it's lofty difficulty rating and commitment grade (a IV, really?) and Dow advertises it as "only two pitches of 5.11" and that's correct. Those pitches and the remaining pitches are outstanding. Handren gives it the 12a grade... but I wouldn't argue with 11d either on that pitch.

It's an excellent route with some really splitter climbing.

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By Princess Mia
From Vail
Oct 4, 2012
Chillin' at City of Rocks
^^^^^^ Neon Sunset as two pitches??? Yeah that sounds pretty rad. Maybe even big wall style.....bring a ledge for god sake!!!
:-D

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By Andy Hansen
From Longmont, Colorado
Oct 4, 2012
Intruder, 5.11+. Zion National Park. Photo: Matt Kuehl
Princess Mia wrote:
^^^^^^ Neon Sunset as two pitches??? Yeah that sounds pretty rad. Maybe even big wall style.....bring a ledge for god sake!!! :-D


You're on to something here... but I think hauling on that visible of a big wall would cause some aesthetic damage to the rock that the BLM would be pretty displeased about. No?

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By CJC
Oct 4, 2012
resolution arÍte

lock thread

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