Time Takes a Cigarette 5.9
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 85 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9+ [details] |
| FA: | Forrest Gardner and Jack Noonan 1985 |
| Submitted By: | Br'er Rabbit on Nov 23, 2008 |
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BETA PHOTO: Time Takes a Cigarette
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Description Chimney up to easy ground working your way up to the long roof. Reach out and throw in a 3" piece as far as you can reach. Launch into the undercling/arm-bar/fist jam out until the crack widens enough to move through. A good rest will be found once you can find solid feet and work your upper body in up to your shoulders. Recover, then fire easy ground to a two bolt anchor.
Location Just right of Southern Express, under the obvious roof with wide undercling crack.
Protection small/medium to roof...#3 and #4 camalot out the roof...0.75 Camalot directional after the lip.
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