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Time Loves a Hero
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 2.4 from 17
votes
Routes in Mota Wall
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[Redacted] S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Abuelito Dime Tu S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Agujero del Espacio S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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All Fun and Games S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bubble Boyz S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Cactus Dancing S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cactus Pile S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Caguama Queen S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cloud Nine S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Crescent Moon AKA: Death of a Tradman T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Diez Algo S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Dope Ninja S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Double Cherry Pie S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Double Trouble S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Drillin' and Swillin' S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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El Grifo ('The Stoner') S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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El Viajero del Tiempo S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Eldorado Chuy S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Emilio's Posse S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fat Boy Slim S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Fear of a Curved Planet S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Fierce Invalids S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Flaming Bearded Lady, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Frenesi S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Güeros Rancheros S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Hey Buddy, Nice Cock S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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I Believe I Can Fly S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Juggalo S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Kelso's Way S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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King Mota S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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La Facil Facil S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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La Foresta S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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La Vaca ('The Cow') S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Leap of Faith S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Lisa's Pizzas S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Monkey Boy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Motarola S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Motavation S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Motavision S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Mystery Niner S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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New Wine T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Onward Through the Fog S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Pancho Villa Rides Again S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Paz Para Viequez S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Petting Zoo S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Pins and Needles S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Prophetess, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Red Helmet S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Rusty's Crack S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sleepwalkin' S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Snott Girlz S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Soul Slinger S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Spies, Lies, and Naked Thighs S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Stone Groovin' S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Team Hilti S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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This Dog's Life S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Time Loves a Hero S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Tlaloc S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Toil for the Wind S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Treasure of the Sierra Madre S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Two Pumped Chump S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Ulf Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Uncle Crusty S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Sport, 800 ft (242 m), 8 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Magic Ed |
| Page Views: | 1,362 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Morgan Smith on Sep 4, 2015 |
| Admins: | Rudy Peckham, MAKB, Greg Hughes, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Ricardo Orozco |
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Description
Crux is at the 5th pitch, in a section with a minor bulge that requires faith in 3 pads, a high foot, and some grit. Overall nice rock, still sharp with lots of friction.
Pitch 1: 5.7 Very easy going. Ends at fixe sport anchors about 75 feet up or can be continued and linked with pitch 2 with 17 draws.
Pitch 2: 5.9+ Fun pitch with solid holds intermixed with sections a bit more difficult. 10 bolts.
Pitch 3: 5.11b (10a variation to the right) Follows dihedral like feature up 90 feet to a crux at the top. Traverse left to anchors.
Pitch 4: 5.10b Good mix of holds about 80 feet up to anchors. 11 bolts.
Pitch 5: 5.11c (10c variation to the left in the middle of the pitch which leads away from the 11c crux, with broken hold that could make it more difficult) ascend small dihedral to small face climb area. Hit the crux in a dihedral and continue on to an amazing slightly overhanging finger crack.
Pitch 6: 5.10b Follow a solid line of holds up to the left, a good section but nothing spectacular. 12 bolts.
Pitch 7: 5.10b A scrambly section lead to a traverse right, into a dihedral. Watch for loose blocks.
Pitch 8: 5.9 Follow another meandering series of bulges up to the left through easy terrain to a nice finish.
This wall is in direct sun after about noon. Unless you get an early start, climbing this route is not recommended until fall or winter. If you do choose to climb it in the summer or spring sun, bring lots of water (at least two liters per person) and electrolytes in your desired form.
Pitch 1: 5.7 Very easy going. Ends at fixe sport anchors about 75 feet up or can be continued and linked with pitch 2 with 17 draws.
Pitch 2: 5.9+ Fun pitch with solid holds intermixed with sections a bit more difficult. 10 bolts.
Pitch 3: 5.11b (10a variation to the right) Follows dihedral like feature up 90 feet to a crux at the top. Traverse left to anchors.
Pitch 4: 5.10b Good mix of holds about 80 feet up to anchors. 11 bolts.
Pitch 5: 5.11c (10c variation to the left in the middle of the pitch which leads away from the 11c crux, with broken hold that could make it more difficult) ascend small dihedral to small face climb area. Hit the crux in a dihedral and continue on to an amazing slightly overhanging finger crack.
Pitch 6: 5.10b Follow a solid line of holds up to the left, a good section but nothing spectacular. 12 bolts.
Pitch 7: 5.10b A scrambly section lead to a traverse right, into a dihedral. Watch for loose blocks.
Pitch 8: 5.9 Follow another meandering series of bulges up to the left through easy terrain to a nice finish.
This wall is in direct sun after about noon. Unless you get an early start, climbing this route is not recommended until fall or winter. If you do choose to climb it in the summer or spring sun, bring lots of water (at least two liters per person) and electrolytes in your desired form.
Location
Find this route about 100 feet to the right of Cloud Nine. The route has a tag at the bottom marking the name and is to the left of a slabby section. Don't be confused by close bolt lines of other routes, just find the tag.
Protection
Bolts bolts bolts! The protection is excellent overall. The first 11 is zippered the whole way up. All the cruxes are very well protected. A small chain, rings or fixes can be expected at the anchors. Bring 18 draws. If all bolts on the first 11 are clipped, the number is about 16. Linking pitches is recommended for the first two pitches. Some bolts can be skipped at the climbers discretion.
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