Time in the Penitentiary (aka: Two Flew the Coop)
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|Type: ||Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet|
|Consensus: ||5.11c/d [details]|
|FA: ||(TR) John Bachar, 1978 (1st half only), FL and upper portion: Tony Sartin & Tom Murphy, April 2007|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Submitted By: ||Murf on Apr 23, 2007|
BETA PHOTO: Time in the Penitentiary AKA:Two Flew the Coop
Much like its neighbor to the left, Crime of the Century, Time in the Penitentiary start with difficult overhanging moves. The first technical crux comes early, with a tricky set of moves. Continue through the upper part of the roof and move left through some flakes to the level of the CoC anchor. Gear appears as needed, and you'll never get too run out.
From the ledge, clip a pin and set up for the second crux. A bomber .75 Camalot protects another roof with thin moves. Moving through juggy patina finishes the 2nd half of the route.
Time in the Penitentiary starts 20 right of Crime of the Century. It is listed in the guidebook as Two Flew the Coop, a Bachar TR. This route continues higher than the previous TR.
1 bolt, 1 fixed pin, blue alien to yellow Camalot, with doubles from yellow Alien to .75 Camalot.
A heads-up belay is required at the bolt, as blowing the moves just above (the crux) will take you close to the deck. Gear might be possible just after the bolt, but be advised, a placement blew under body weight in this area during the FA efforts.