Time for Therapy  5.10b X

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Type:  Trad, TR, 60 feet Consensus:  5.10b [details] FA:  2011 Submitted By:  Gunkiemike on Sep 3, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

The rope is hanging down Sinister Urge. Time for ...

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Description 

Recommended as a toprope only, as there is no gear to keep your body out of the boulder jumble if you blow the cruxy slab moves under the roof. But it has been led. Start at the base of the arete on a pointed block. Immediately start angling right onto the slab. When you get to the roof, traverse left to the obvious jam crack that cleaves the bulge.

Location 

Go left into the canyon that is south (left) of the Golden Dreams face. You'll see the profile of the route on the right. A good view can be had from atop the Skink block (see the route photo)

Protection 

Gear and/or trees for the anchor. Best to hang the rope a few feet to the right of the crack through the bulge, or else a fall off the slab will swing the climber onto something hard below. If falls are likely, two ropes might not be a bad idea.