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 ADVANCED
The Golden Wall
Select Route:
Barndance, a.k.a. Crankmaster T's Arete TR 
Fickle Fingers T,TR 
Golden Dream, The T,TR 
Jam On! T,TR 
Scoop Arete T,TR 
Scoop Face T,TR 
Sinister Urge (formerly SLAM Dance) T 
Skink T,TR 
Skink Redirect TR 
Slot Machine T,TR 
Stinky Americans T,TR 
Super Skink TR 
Time for Therapy T,TR 

Time for Therapy 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b X

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 2011
Page Views: 351
Submitted By: Gunkiemike on Sep 3, 2012

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The rope is hanging down Sinister Urge. Time for ...

Description 

Recommended as a toprope only, as there is no gear to keep your body out of the boulder jumble if you blow the cruxy slab moves under the roof. But it has been led. Start at the base of the arete on a pointed block. Immediately start angling right onto the slab. When you get to the roof, traverse left to the obvious jam crack that cleaves the bulge.


Location 

Go left into the canyon that is south (left) of the Golden Dreams face. You'll see the profile of the route on the right. A good view can be had from atop the Skink block (see the route photo)


Protection 

Gear and/or trees for the anchor. Best to hang the rope a few feet to the right of the crack through the bulge, or else a fall off the slab will swing the climber onto something hard below. If falls are likely, two ropes might not be a bad idea.



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