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Tilting at Windmills 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c A3

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 200', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c A3 [details]
FA: Tom Bepler, Kyle Copeland, Dec., 1988
Page Views: 699
Submitted By: toddgordon on May 3, 2007
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Tilting at Windmills, pitch 1.
Photo by Todd Gordo...
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Description 

This climb is located just out of the parking lot on the left. It goes to the top of the formation. It has a very short approach. The crux is the first 20 some feet,... maybe the first 3 placements, which is a shame, because doing dicey aid right off the ground can be dangerous. You have to do something with these sort of blow out holes;....I used those funky-looking big-ol'pika hooks...(toucans, I believe they are called...).....they look wierd but they worked;...I would imagine regular hooks would be too small.....even though the Pika hooks worked;...I was scared non-the-less. (I borrowed them from Dana;..I had never used them before...) I suppose you could just climb the 5.9 Cinnamon Rose, which goes to the same belay, and then do the rest of the Tilting at Windmills......but then, you wouldn't really be doing "the route", would you? The rest of the climb seemed fun and easy. we rapped off to the left, I believe. I did this climb with Dana Adler, in March of 1997. Anyone else do this climb, and have more suggestions of how to do that funky start?




Photos of Tilting at Windmills Slideshow Add Photo
Dana Adler following pitch 1. <br />Photo by Todd Gordon.
Dana Adler following pitch 1.
Photo by Todd Gordon...
Tilting Windmills area. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Tilting Windmills area.
Photo by Blitzo.
Comments on Tilting at Windmills Add Comment
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By toddgordon
From: Joshua Tree, California
May 4, 2007

The rest of the climb seemed fun and easy. we rapped off to the left, I believe. I did this climb with Dana Adler, in March of 1997. Anyone else do this climb, and have more suggestions of how to do that funky start?

By Nate26
Sep 22, 2008

anyone led the first pitch free? Tred it and it felt good (though hard) after the first 20'.

By steven sadler
From: SLC, UT
4 days ago

I looked at the first pitch and it looked like it could be an awesome free climb. If I find the time I'll head down there and give it a go.