Tilting at Windmills  5.8 A3

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Type:  Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 200 feet, Grade II Consensus:  5.8 A3 [details] FA:  Tom Bepler, Kyle Copeland, Dec., 1988 Submitted By:  toddgordon on May 3, 2007 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Tilting at Windmills, pitch 1.
Photo by Todd Gordo...

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Description 

This climb is located just out of the parking lot on the left. It goes to the top of the formation. It has a very short approach. The crux is the first 20 some feet,... maybe the first 3 placements, which is a shame, because doing dicey aid right off the ground can be dangerous. You have to do something with these sort of blow out holes;....I used those funky-looking big-ol'pika hooks...(toucans, I believe they are called...).....they look wierd but they worked;...I would imagine regular hooks would be too small.....even though the Pika hooks worked;...I was scared non-the-less. (I borrowed them from Dana;..I had never used them before...) I suppose you could just climb the 5.9 Cinnamon Rose, which goes to the same belay, and then do the rest of the Tilting at Windmills......but then, you wouldn't really be doing "the route", would you? The rest of the climb seemed fun and easy. we rapped off to the left, I believe. I did this climb with Dana Adler, in March of 1997. Anyone else do this climb, and have more suggestions of how to do that funky start?

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Dana Adler following pitch 1. Photo by Todd Gordon...

Tilting Windmills area. Photo by Blitzo.