Tilted Mitten, Right Side 5.8
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches, 150 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8 [details] |
| FA: | Galen Rowell and Jim Harper - July, 1962 |
| Submitted By: | Osprey on Dec 1, 2009 |
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Fifi Buttress To Close! MORE INFO >>>
The following areas are closed to all visitor use to protect peregrine falcon aeries from March 1 until August 1 of each year or until the young falcons of the current year have fledged: Fifi Buttress Immediately west of Leaning Tower. Closure includes all routes on Fifi Buttress.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description This is a good low angle climb up to a great ledge. Pitch 1) Climb up the offwidth crux to a flat area and belay with gear from blocks under a chimney. Pitch 2) Continue up the chimney, also a crux, and jam your way to the platform and the belay bolts. This climb can be done in one long pitch if desired but most do it in two. The flat ledge at the top is an awesome place to hang out for a while. It also is the first belay for The Hand Me Down .10a Rappel with two ropes.
Location This is the right facing corner just past and down from Mental Block.
Protection Gear to 4.5 inches plus slings. Bolted rappel anchor on top.
| Comments on Tilted Mitten, Right Side |
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By Mark P Thomas From: Oakland Apr 24, 2012 rating: 5.8
| The 5.9 option for P1 is interesting, though a bit dirty. Climb an awkward lieback jam that quickly becomes an bit of an offwidth (Bring a #5 Camalot to slide up this part). I found it best to stay left-side in and you find some features on your right to work with. Continue up to where it levels out and thin lieback around the corner to gain the belay to start P2. Gear at the lieback is a bit suspect. The P2 OW crux can be protected by pushing a #5 Camalot, though it is pretty unstable. A pushing a #6 Camalot would make that section very comfy. |
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