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 ADVANCED
Sentinel Creek Area
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Hand Me Down, The 
Hari-Kiri 
Kung Pao Chicken 
Manana 
Mental Block 
Pharaoh's Beard, Regular Route 
Post Tramatic Climbing Disorder 
Sphinxter, The 
Spiderman 
Tilted Mitten, Left Side 
Tilted Mitten, Right Side 
Vanishing Point 
Whiskers 
Ying-Yang 

Tilted Mitten, Left Side 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 250'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Galen Rowell and Gary Colliver (Aug '62)
Page Views: 141
Submitted By: Bryan G on May 8, 2011
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Description 

This somewhat obscure route features one good pitch and one bad pitch.

First is the bad pitch. Climb up the corner that's half rock and half munge to reach some scary thin flakes wedged in a chimney. Squeeze up between the flake and the outside wall to reach some easier terrain. Climb past a tree with a bunch of rap slings on it and build a gear anchor (nuts, small-medium cams) at a stance just above the tree.

The second pitch is pretty much all chimney climbing and is considerably cleaner than the first. The crux is a "roof" where the chimney pinches down to a tight squeeze and it requires some thoughtful moves to wiggle past. There is another constriction above that is similar but easier. Belay at the new bolted anchor at the top of the Mitten.

Rappel from the summit with two ropes. One 70m rope doesn't quite make it but it is possible to downclimb the first few feet of the Right Side Route.


Location 

The Tilted Mitten is the exfoliation flake located just below and left of the giant corner system of Mental Block


Protection 

Single rack to 6"



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By Mark P Thomas
From: Oakland
Apr 24, 2012

It looks like you can avoid the bad pitch and step over at the tree by taking the 5.9 variation to the Right Side and staying on the flake/ledge rather than liebacking up to P2 of the Right Side. A little dirty, but not too bad and has some interesting OWish moves.