Tilman's Arete 5.7
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches, 150 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.7 [details] |
| FA: | Karen Stoltz, Cindy Dohl 1988 |
| Submitted By: | E thatcher on Jul 7, 2010 |
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Myself on the final moves.
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Description This route climbs the prominent right angling arete as visible from Rt 73.
The second pitch offers fun exposed arete climbing with a magnificent backdrop.
There are many moderate variations to the first pitch that start in the corner to the left of the arete, and use the cracks to traverse over to the fixed anchor atop pitch 1.
The pitches can easily be linked into 1 pitch.
Pitch 1: Climb a crack to the arete and angle left to a 2 bolt anchor on a comfortable ledge. (5.3)
Pitch2: Climb the obvious arete above. you will pass a bolt at about mid height. to 1 3 bolt anchor/rappel station. (5.7)
The route can be rapped in one rappel with two ropes, or two rappels with 1 rope.
Location The approach trail deposits you at a clearing in a prominent corner. Tilmans arete starts approximately 15' to the right of the corner in a crack that is wider at the base.
Protection A single rack will be more then adequate. Both anchors are bolted.
Climbers all over ... a popular guiding destinatio...
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Belay point (spacious with 3 tired looking bolts) ...
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Tillman's Arete
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Looking up at first pitch,there are a variety of w...
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John following Tillman's - Peak colors
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Paul Deagle - Tileman's Arete looking down second ...
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| Comments on Tilman's Arete |
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By Chris Duca
Administrator
From: Hinesburg, Vermont
Sep 6, 2010
rating: 5.7 R
| Climbed this route today for the first time. Perfect position on impeccable stone, though fairly runout above the bolt on the 2nd pitch with iffy pro to the anchor. Though an absolute classic, I would not recommend this route for the budding 5.7 leader due to how marginal the gear is. |
By Greg Kuchyt
Apr 2, 2011
rating: 5.7 PG13
| I second Chris PG/R, not for the budding 5.7 leader. |
By Mike McLean
Aug 11, 2011
rating: 5.7 PG13
| The P1 5.6 variation is nice as well. It starts in the corner on the left, up 10 or so feet, then step onto the horizontal, then up the ovbious right leaning crack. You join the arręte from the top of the crack. Gear was good. |
By Jamis Bruening
Aug 13, 2011
| Climbed this yesterday and I would say PG, if you use everything that is there. Excellent climb, a very fun slabby arete. |
By M LaViolette Jr.
From: The Past
Oct 20, 2011
rating: 5.7 R
| I agree with Mike, the 5.6 variation is the way to go on the first pitch. Blow the crux just before the piece after the bolt and you'll probably bounce off the belay ledge. Gear up to .5 and 4 PBR's. |
By Dave Schultz
From: Everett, Washington
May 3, 2012
| Climbed this one today, and found the gear above the bolt on P2 to be perfectly adequate. There is a bomber nut placement above the bolt, and then you can get two small cams (.3 and .4 BD) before reaching the belay. |
By Matt Baer
May 17, 2012
rating: 5.7
| I love this route! Excellent climbing with great views. Fun face climbing then break onto the arete and enjoy some great holds. |
By Simon Thompson
From: New Paltz, NY
Jul 25, 2012
| P2 is a pretty "heady" lead. The crux is protected by a bolt but there are still some 5.6-ish moves above on somewhat runout terrain. I thought the pro above the bolt was also a bit marginal. |
By garyjutah
Aug 3, 2012
| All there awesome route. 5.6 start is a must. |
By Chris Mp
From: Toronto, ON
Oct 9, 2012
| Excellent climb in a very scenic location.
I found that M LaViolette Jr.'s post was spot on... "Blow the crux just before the piece after the bolt and you'll probably bounce off the belay ledge".
Variation cracks on P1 (on climber's left) remain wet for a day or two after rain. |
By Jay Harrison
Dec 7, 2012
rating: 5.7 PG13
| To start the climb, one can climb directly up the middle of the face, though the moves are hard 5.7, maybe easy 5.8, and there is no gear. |
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