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Till Hell Freezes Over 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 500', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: James and Franziska Garrett, spring 1994
Season: summer
Page Views: 1,649
Submitted By: tenesmus on Apr 22, 2007

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The Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtle anchor at the top ...

  • Use the established trails
  • Park your car off of the main canyon road.

  • Description 

    Really fun climbing on the Main Hellgate. This is an adventure route that starts with a nice hand and face pitch. Next is is an .11a pocket crux pitch on bolts and then two more pitches of .10 and .9 bolted climbing. Its best to avoid the main hellgate in the Spring due to incessant and frequent rockfall.

    Location 

    Starts in a right facing corner about 60 feet left of a dark streak in the middle of the main wall.

    Protection 

    I brought a standard rack but only used medium cams. Long runners and quickdraws help avoid rope drag. I can't remember if we did two double rope rappels or one double rope and one single rope rappel. Do NOT forget your helmet.


    Photos of Till Hell Freezes Over Slideshow Add Photo
    A drilling session in early 1993 on Till Hell Freezes Over (Dave Anderson photo)...we had reclimbed up to the 2nd belay, got in a few bolts of upward progress and again retreated in the freezing wind.
    A drilling session in early 1993 on Till Hell Free...
    Great climb! wear a helmet
    Great climb! wear a helmet
    Freezing on Pitch #3
    Freezing on Pitch #3

    Comments on Till Hell Freezes Over Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By James Garrett
    Sep 22, 2007

    Just so someone doesn't get in over their head, Tenesmus reports this as being 300 feet....sure, the first two pitches. If one does this route or it's neighbor Hell Raiser (5 pitches) or any of the other Main Hellgate routes that go to the top, expect a few more feet of climbing and to need 2 ropes for the abseil. Tenesmus is such a good climber, he probably 4th classed the first couple of pitches up there. For the rest of us gumbies, it is indeed.....bigger.
    By notmyname
    From: Stony Brook, NY
    Jun 6, 2009

    Just did the variation to the right - it links in just below the 5.11- pitch and continues to the top of this route. Awesome climb!!!!!! Only a few cams (2x#0.5, 1x#2) are needed on P1 (a yellow TCU to a Blue camamlot fit, but you don't need a full rack so maybe take one of every other size). Pitch two was really really fun and STEEP!!!.

    Thanks for putting up the route!
    By zoso
    Jul 31, 2012

    Attempted the actual start to this today. Tenesmus's description is a bit off me thinks. By far and away, I'd recommend the "Hell Raiser" start--much more fun and safe.
    The topo in the Ruckman guide is pretty nondescript so here's some blathering:
    From the belay bolt, head up and right with about a 30' run out over very easy ground. Clip the 1st bolt. The second one is close-ish on the dark mini-arete on the left. Now plug a piece or 2 into a flake system (easy). Find a bolt @ it's terminus hiding under a bush. Now climb 8 feet or so above said bolt, look everywhere for ANY gear opportunities and then bail on that bolt below you.
    The anchor looms about 25' above. Seems like 5.9, thin, fragile, and techy climbing. If you have the balls, fess up. Just seems odd to have this much of a runout, although I did enjoy the adventure of it all.
    By Landon McBrayer
    From: Salt Lake City, UT
    Jul 10, 2013

    Aside from the final choss pitch (which we didn't do), you can rap this route easily with a single 70m. We rapped down Hell Raiser.