Tighten It Up
|189 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, Aid, 2 pitches, 230 feet|
|Consensus: ||5.8 A2+ [details]|
|FA: ||Rich Ludwing and Jeremy Aslaksen|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||All year. Summer would be frigging hot.|
|Submitted By: ||Jeremy Aslaksen on Feb 19, 2013|
Cruise up to the base to the large flat area and find a couple high bolts that lead into the obvious crack system that splits the tower (big roof).
First pitch is the crux with a possible 30+ foot groundfall if the string of #1 Peckers blows. Pretty casual but don't blow it. The sand below is super soft so you might be able to walk it off.
Bust through the choss into better rock and find the bolted belay on a sweet ledge. 120 feet?
Pitch 2 goes up and attacks the roof using the right thin crack. Cams in soft rock leads upward. Pull the roof to better rock and belay at the notch.
Scramble to the summit.
NOTE: Leave a rope fixed to the first belay station as the rap will leave you hanging in air spinning slowly while you try to hook the belay slings with all of your aiders tied together for 20 minutes as it gets dark and you have to pee.
10 #1 Peckers
8 #2 Peckers
5 #3 Peckers
triple rack of cams from Aliens to #5.
We only needed (2) #5s
Tower from parking lot/camp spot.
Pitch 1 topo
Start of pitch 2
Pitch 2 roof