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Tiger's Woody 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 55'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Mark Rolofson belayed by Kirk Miller on Dec. 10, 2011
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,022
Submitted By: Mark Rolofson on Dec 13, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Matt Lloyd works this terrific new line.

Description 

Start by climbing a wide crack up the left side of 15 foot pillar. Move left past 2nd bolt and up the face to a shallow, horizontal break & 3rd bolt. The crux traverses right onto the blunt arete via sidepulls & poor footholds. Continue up the left side of the arete with another 5.12 crux. Move left at 5th bolt under a small bulge to a sharp arete. A final 5.12 section leads up this arete to jugs above the last bolt. Traverse right and reach down to the anchor.

I bolted this route in January 2010 and had climbed it (A0) hanging on thre 3rd bolt 5 times prior to the successful redpoint ascent. The crux is very difficult, and there was one move I could barely do. Finally I tried a different smear for my left foot and a tiny piece of rock broke off leaving a small edge. This foothold made all the difference. This climb took me a lot of effort. I believe it is one of the two hardest climbs on North Table Mountain. I would like to thank everyone who belayed me on numerous attempts.

Location 

This climb is between "Tiger Shark" & "S.S. Minnow". It ascends the phallus-shaped formation capped with a large head.

Protection 

7 bolts / 2 Fixe rings.


Photos of Tiger's Woody Slideshow Add Photo
The line.
The line.
Another photo of the route, great line.
Another photo of the route, great line.

Comments on Tiger's Woody Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Feb 25, 2014
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Dec 14, 2011

Nice work/dedication, Mark....
By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Dec 14, 2011

Yes, and nice name too!
By mlloyd
From: denver
Dec 15, 2011

A very nice route with great compression movement, quality stone, and cryptic beta. A nice addition indeed, thanks Mark.
By AOSR
From: Wherever we park!
Jan 9, 2012

Good work, guys. I remember trying it on TR and thinking it felt pretty impossible.
By Train4life
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 21, 2013
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

Thank you very much, Mark, for bolting this line! I think the anchors could be moved to where the bolt is, but AMAZING EYE for a Classic climb with very very aesthetic moves. Beautiful line and a great 13a that was fun to work. Thin footholds with balancy movements! Thank you for bolting this beast! :) First 13a Send! Thank you again!
By Jay Samuelson
From: Denver CO
Dec 15, 2013

Great route! Nice, interesting moves all the way up the wall which requires a variety of techniques. Great flow to the movement as well with logical (although maybe inobvious) sequences. I agree that the anchor should be placed at or above the last bolt, instead of down to the right. Thanks for the addition, Mark!
By Curt MacNeill
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 17, 2014

I was quite impressed with this route. I found myself thinking that this rock reminded be of the bullet hard sandstone of Summersville Lake at the New River Gorge. Cool climbing with some less than there feet and some bad slopers. Give yourself a pat on the back if you send when its hot and the holds are super greasy. I'm curious to know if the one pocket on the route is au natural or not? It seems a bit suspicious and out of place? Hmmm.... I also agree that the anchors should be moved to above the last bolt or we can make a quick fix and sink another bolt in next to the last bolt and just hang some steel Climbtech draws making that the anchor. Overall, a fun route and a great addition to the Table Mountain Area....
By Tzilla Rapdrilla
Feb 18, 2014

Pocket "natural"? The entire cliff was manufactured, so technically nothing there is natural. The pocket could have been from drilling to set the explosives.
By Kirk Miller
From: Golden, CO
Feb 18, 2014

I'll talk to Mark about moving the anchors up. When I put in the first set, I had no idea how the route would top out.
Can't say where it came from, we didn't create the pocket.
By Curt MacNeill
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 19, 2014

Hey Kirk. Yeah, I figured you envisioned people climbing "in" the scoop and people ended up climbing more on the arete. At this point, most people are just clipping the last bolt and not even touching the anchors. Regardless, a great route! Thanks for putting it up. Well done....
By Kirk Miller
From: Golden, CO
Feb 20, 2014

For sure, Mark gets the credit for this one! I only spotted the line and installed the initial anchors, but Mark did all the work. While Mark was bolting this one, I bolted its neighbor, Wooly Bully.
By Train4life
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 21, 2014
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

I have to say that although I agree the anchors need to be moved...the redpoint is WAY Better and more fun with them where they are...it leaves an element of spookiness and is fun to lean over on that not so great right foot to the right of the arete and just hope that it does not blow! That being said, the anchors are a bit out of place! But I think for the true excitement of the redpoint, you should clip the anchors!
By Kirk Miller
From: Golden, CO
Feb 25, 2014

I spoke with Mark about moving the anchors up... he's of the opinion to leave it the way it is. He said the route cleans well from the existing anchor set and the finish is well protected as is.
By Train4life
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 25, 2014
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

Kirk, I really do agree. Honestly, I think it is a really really exciting finish with the anchors the way they are...and not a dangerous one. The fall would be super clean and adds another technical move at the top. I had to lean far right and breathe with a nervous laugh when clipping! Super fun and committing clip for the anchors off a sidepull on a small foot! :)