Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Tieton River

Select Area...
Bend, The 
Cave, The 
Chunkyard, The 
Goose Egg Mountain 
Honeycomb Buttress, The 
Kloochman Rock 
Lava Point 
Moon Rocks 
Oasis, The 
Rainbow Rocks 
Royal Columns 
South Fork Cliff 
Tim's Pond 
Wild Cat Wall 

Rest Day:
Nearby Mountain Bike Rides

Ape Canyon Trail
A climb/decent up the base of Mt. St. Helens. It also connects to the IMBA epic, Plains of Abraham. Near Yacolt, WA
Ape Canyon to Plains of Abraham
An amazing journey back in time to the scene of the Mt. St. Helens eruption. Near Yacolt, WA
Little Bald Mountain Trail
Extreme exposure combine with amazing views from the upper portion of the cliffside trail. Near Cle Elum, WA
Little Bald Mountain Loop
After the long climb up, the return singletrack route has amazing views from the cliff-side trail. Near Cle Elum, WA
Skookum Flats Trail - IMBA Epic
A classic rugged river trail along the west bank of the White River. Near Enumclaw, WA
White River Trail
Nice rolling, shady singletrack following Highway 410. Near Enumclaw, WA
From MP's sister site: MTB Project

Tieton River 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 46.64278, -121.39234 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 93,656
Administrators: Peter Franzen, Jon Nelson, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: andyf on Feb 18, 2007
Good Page?1 person likes this page. Your opinion:   
You & This Area
Best routes for YOU in this area Add Area | Add Photo | Add Comment | Add Event
Wed Thu Fri Sat Sun
Rain
46° | 34°
Snow
41° | 28°
Chance of Rain
42° | 27°
Partly Cloudy
43° | 30°
Snow Showers
41° | 28°
Tieton Wall from the Road
Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The Tieton (Tie-eh-ton) River crags are spread out along a twenty-mile stretch of the Tieton River drainage, on the east slope of the south Cascades. Most of the crags are andesite (similar to basalt), part of a fifty-mile long flow from the ancient Goat Rocks volcano. By some accounts it's the world's longest andesite flow.

There are more than 400 routes, pretty much evenly split between trad and sport. Generally, the crags in the lower canyon (Royal Columns, the Bend, Moon Rocks) have more crack routes while the crags higher in the drainage (the Oasis, the Cave, Rainbow Rocks, Wildcat, Lava Point and South Fork) have more sport routes. Whether it's a reflection of the rock or the primary route developers, the Tieton shines at the 5.10 grade for trad routes and 5.11 grade for sport climbs.

The lower canyon is semi-arid with sagebrush, cactus and oak groves. The higher crags are in mixed forests of ponderosa pine and Douglas fir. Throughout the area, nearly every crag offers either morning or afternoon shade, and sometimes both. With a little planning, summer climbing in the Tieton can be more pleasant than in Leavenworth.

Watch for rattlesnakes in the lower canyon.


Getting There 

If you're coming from Seattle or north, cross the Cascades on I-90, then take I-82 to Yakima. From Yakima, head west on Highway 12 approximately 20 miles, turning left where Highway 12 branches off of Highway 410. The first major crag (the Royal Columns) is about two miles ahead on the left, across from the Oak Creek Wildlife Area headquarters. Drive time approximately 3 hours.

From the South Sound (Tacoma and Olympia), or from Seattle to reach the upper Tieton crags, it's quicker in the summer to follow Highway 410 to Cayuse Pass, then take Highway 123 through Mt. Rainier National Park to Highway 12. Cross White Pass to the Tieton. Drive time approximately 2 and a half hours from Tacoma, even shorter to some crags.

From eastern Washington, get to Yakima, then follow the directions above.


132 Total Routes


['4 Stars',13],['3 Stars',57],['2 Stars',49],['1 Star',11],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',6],['5.7',13],['5.8',13],['5.9',22],['5.10',44],['5.11',27],['5.12',6],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Tieton River:
Western Front   5.4 4a 12 IV VD 3c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Royal Columns : Orange Sunshine area
Mush Maker   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Royal Columns : Main Face
Ed's Jam   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches   The Bend : Bend Center
First Blood   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, 70'   Royal Columns : Main Face
Developing Arms   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Royal Columns : Orange Sunshine area
Jam Exam   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Royal Columns : Orange Sunshine area
Thriller Pillar   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Sport, 70'   Royal Columns : Orange Sunshine area
Inca Roads   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Royal Columns : Main Face
Salmon Song   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 85'   The Bend : Bend West
MX   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 210'   The Bend : Bend Center
Stress Management   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Royal Columns : Orange Sunshine area
Reckoning   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   The Bend : Bend West
Orange Sunshine   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Royal Columns : Orange Sunshine area
Cat Crack   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Trad, 90'   Wild Cat Wall
Pure Joy   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Trad   The Bend : Bend West
Saint Of Circumstance   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Lava Point : Lava Wall/Deadheads
Paul Maul   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Royal Columns : Orange Sunshine area
Solar King   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 75'   Royal Columns : Orange Sunshine area
The Price of Complacency   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Royal Columns : Orange Sunshine area
Keel Hauled   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c     Trad, Sport, 110'   Wild Cat Wall
Browse More Classics in Tieton River

Featured Route For Tieton River
Jon at the start of Pure Joy (upper left crack) and Reckoning (upper right crack).

Reckoning 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b  WA : Tieton River : ... : Bend West
Both Reckoning and Pure Joy share the same start. Begin in the easier crack, then climb the very nice finger crack on the right side of the broken column (left is Pure Joy, .10c). Rock quality is very good, as is gear....[more]   Browse More Classics in WA

Photos of Tieton River Slideshow Add Photo
Andy & Doug appear to be syncronized at Lava Point.
Andy & Doug appear to be syncronized at Lava Point...
Climbers enjoying a beautiful spring day at Lava Point.
Climbers enjoying a beautiful spring day at Lava P...
Andy warming up on "Artificially Insteminated" 5.9 at Lava Point/Deadheads.
Andy warming up on "Artificially Insteminated" 5.9...
Andy about to crux on "Saint of Circumstance" 5.10c at Lava Point/Deadheads.
Andy about to crux on "Saint of Circumstance" 5.10...
Doug enjoying "Travalava" 5.9 at Lava Point.
Doug enjoying "Travalava" 5.9 at Lava Point.
Andy remembering how steep the routes are at Lava Point.
Andy remembering how steep the routes are at Lava ...
Spring in the Tieton Valley!
Spring in the Tieton Valley!
Comments on Tieton River Add Comment
Show which comments
By sqwirll
From: Las Vegas
Sep 27, 2007

The ratings here seem to be sanbagged a little. If you haven't climbed here then you may want to start a grade or two lower and work your way up. The grades seem to become more accurate once you get to the 5.9 and up climbing. If your crack technique sucks, then they may even feel harder.