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j. The Yellow Wall (Airy Aria) - The Seasons (The Spring)
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49 T 
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Nose, The T 
Oblique Twique T 
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Spring (P1), The T 
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Tiers of Fear T 
Torture Garden T 
Uphill all the Way AKA The Man Who Fell to Earth T 
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Winter, The T 
Yellow Wall, The T 

Tiers of Fear 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Raffa & Clune, 1983
Page Views: 922
Submitted By: Sean Nelb on Feb 16, 2013

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Seasonal Raptor Closure from Moondance to After the Prick MORE INFO >>>

Location 

At a very shallow corner in between No Man's Land and Yellow Wall, just beneath the large triangle point in the roof above.

Description 

Wild and scary! Rarely climbed because of the intimidating, poorly protected last roof, which is supposed to take either a #4 Friend in a very shallow horizontal (nothing else fits) or small wires. Big moves, big falls, and lots of fun.

Climb a shallow dihedral to blocks. Angle right then back left over some flakes and blocks to a good stance in an alcove. Head up the right-facing corner, exiting left to the face for a few feet. At a good stance, traverse up and right, aiming for the narrow part of the large tiers. Pull over the first roof, then hand traverse left to a small bend. Pull the second roof, place some gear if you can find it, and make powerful moves through the final, pointy roof.

To descend, rap or head left to No Man's Land.

Protection 

Small nuts to #2 Camalot (or #4 Friend for the crux). Mostly finger-sized pieces. Many shoulder or double slings.

For years this had an anchor just above the crux. In 2012, this anchor was missing, necessitating a traverse to No Man's Land. Rope drag was hell.


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By bheller
From: SL UT
Apr 27, 2013
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13

Are you sure a new BD cam won't fit?
By Sean Nelb
From: Estes Park, CO
Nov 20, 2014

The horizontals in the roof are very shallow. The lobes on a Camalot stick out too far past the head when they are compressed to fit. A #4 Friend supposedly doesn't have this problem. I never tried the Friend since I don't own one, and was never able to get any nuts in anywhere. Double up on the cams at the end of the left-ward traverse and then gun it to the anchor above the pointy roof. You'll need a good belayer: if you blow it and there's too much slack out you could hit the slab below the tiers.
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