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Tiempos de Ceguera (Times of Blindness) 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E7 6c

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13 French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: X- British: E7 6c [details]
FA: equipped by Roger Molina, Spain - FFA Justin Sjong
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 3,347
Submitted By: panywine on Sep 30, 2007
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Description 

The route climbs the magnificent arete-face thats starts after the crux of Gates of Eden. You keep bouncing your left hand through the slopers on the left side of the arete, trying to find the best one, and crimping on the small holds with your right hand.

The first four bolts are the hardest of the climb but the real crux is between the third and the fourth. You clip this last one from above, past the hard move. You will actually feel confortable if you find the right position....

A good idea to try the route would be to climb Double Jeopardy and put the draws on the way down. It's very technical, delicate and tricky, so don't lose the oportunity.


Location 

The route climbs through the arete on the left side of Double Jeopardy. It shares the same begining than Gates of Eden, turning right after the first bolt.
You lower down from a double bolt anchor (Super Shut) that can be used also to lower from Double Jeopardy.


Protection 

There are 6 bolts and a double bolt anchor (Super Shut) to lower down.
If you are scared of cliping the first bolt, it's posible to place a piece of gear in the crack (red Alien)



Photos of Tiempos de Ceguera (Times of Blindness) Slideshow Add Photo
In the middle of the top crux.
In the middle of the top crux.
Comments on Tiempos de Ceguera (Times of Blindness) Add Comment
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By Dan Levison
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 4, 2008

I believe Song did the FFA, but who equipped this route (FA)?

By panywine
Mar 11, 2008

Hi, this is Roger Molina from Spain. I equipped the route a few months ago when I was living in Boulder. I was very close to make the FA but I hade to leave for more important stuff in the Valley.

I hope you like it....

By Paul Hunnicutt
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 14, 2008

Justin Sjong did the first ascent. His rating was 5.13b and he said it was very nice to climb a hard new route in Boulder Canyon. Apparently though it has been spitting off a lot of other strong climbers according to Justin. Roger - send me an email! I'm putting the Yosemite photos in the mail tomorrow for you.

By Ted Lanzano
From: Boulder, CO
May 16, 2008

Thought I'd let you know that I broke a hold just right of the 4th bolt of this climb. Now the top crux is pretty darn hard, especially if you ascend via the face crimp holds and not the arete. I think an alternative sequence could still go for some strong dude/dudette. Sorry folks!

By panywine
Oct 8, 2008

What have you done Ted!!!jaja Shit hapens, don`t worry..Do you think that now the route still the same grade??

By Matt Battaglia
Mar 19, 2009
rating: 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- E7 6c

So... more holds have broken. Yesterday I busted a key foot off in the pictured sequence and Patrick Burns busted off a key crimp seen in the picture; both of us were trying the sequence up the arete. The sequence still goes (on the dog for me) but the foot is now a swear and the crimp is smaller.