Tidrick's 5.8
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 3 pitches, 190 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9 [details] |
| FA: | Rick Tidrick with friends |
| Submitted By: | Brian T. Wandzilak on Nov 30, 2003 |
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Jon Cannon considers the crux of Tidrick's. Photo...
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Seasonal falcon nesting closures MORE INFO >>>
The East Face of North Gateway is closed to climbers every year from around Feb 1 until early August, depending on when the birds fledge. It's not posted out there, but since the closure has been in effect for 20+ years it is incumbent on climbers to know about closures by stopping in at the visitor center and asking. The falcons always nest in a big pothole above the traverse ledge and below the Kissing Camels arch.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description This is one of the few moderate, multi-pitch routes at the Garden that about any intermediate leader should be able to do. It is a three pitch route that wanders up the Finger Face.
Pitch 1: Climb the Tourist Gully to the FIRST large eyebolt. From here head out to the right past three pins and get an ascent of the Lower Finger Traverse (5.7). Anchor in at the chains in the alcove below the "finger".
Pitch 2: From the anchors, head up and left past two (maybe 1?) runout bolts. There are some natural pro possibilities, they may help more with your mental climbing than actually stopping a fall. Pull the cruxish move between the second and third bolts (5.8), scamper up to the third bolt, clip, catch your breath, and prepare for another fun traverse. You will want to head left across an apparently blank looking face to the visible anchors at the top of Son of Tidrick's. Plan your attack, trust your feet, get across the face, grab the jug, and do a slight downclimb to the anchors. Belay your partner across and watch them sketch through the traverse.
Pitch 3: (5.7) Not many people do this pitch, but fun if you have the time. Head straight up from the anchors through three bolts. At the third bolt do yet another traverse right, to Place in the Sun's anchors which are not visible from the end of the second pitch.
DESCENT: Two ropes (recommended) should at least get you to the initial eyebolt. One rope would get you to the second or third eyebolts.
Protection Mostly bolted with chain anchors. A couple of places for small cams and stoppers (not needed, probably wouldn't stop a fall, but there are a few good places to practice placing).
John Thomson beginning the third pitch of Tidrick'...
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John Thomson through the crux on the third pitch o...
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John Thomson on the final move of Tidrick's, 11/2/...
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Sebastian and Ross on the first pitch of Tidrick's...
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Starting up the first pitch of Tidrick's.
photo b...
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By Anonymous Coward
Dec 5, 2003
| A word on the crux: it seems awfully sandy and frictiony until you move your left foot over (WAY over) into a nice seam. From there, you can simply reach up to a nice jug and haul past. |
By kevin jenkins
Sep 4, 2004
| there is a very real danger of getting pumped too early on this. coming out and accross on the first three bolts of the second pitch are an exercise in precision foot placement. stopping for too long is a sure way to drain and fail. be safe! |
By Erik Tullberg
From: Colorado Springs
Jun 22, 2008
rating: 5.9 R
| We did this route as the second pitch of Finger Ramp. What a nice ending to that climb (though it is run-out between the 2nd and 3rd bolts - then it's good again). |
By Nathan Hoobler
Oct 18, 2010
| We climbed this again today. I've always combined pitches 2 & 3, skipped the Son of Tidrick's anchors, and gone directly to the Place in the Sun anchors. I guess that's more like finishing Place in the Sun. I'm curious about the route up from the Sun anchors. Bob's book says "continue up on flexible flakes (5.8)". Has anyone done this ending recently? Care to comment on the pro? |
By Nathan Hoobler
Oct 18, 2010
| I also wanted to add that a single 70 m rope gets you down to Tourist Gully maybe 15 feet from the very bottom. Very easy to get off the rope here and scramble down (and easier than using a second rope). |
By Bosier Parsons
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Nov 3, 2010
| The third pitch goes right and up from the Place in the Sun anchor at about 8+/9-. You actually step right and down slightly to start the pitch, which is a little exciting getting to the first pin, but not too bad. Then traverse right and up past two more pins to a nice, south-facing ledge/ramp system. The anchor here is 2 drilled pins, webbing, and rap rings. The webbing is definitely old and faded, and next time I climb it, I'll replace it. We didn't this time, because we finished by climbing almost to the top of the Kissing Camels via the last pitches of the Boucher-Twombly Route (5.6). Please note that if you do this, it's illegal to climb up and over the Kissing Camels. |
By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Dec 13, 2010
rating: 5.9 R
| Fun stuff! Led Tidrick's/Place in the Sun link-up. The Tidrick's P1 crux is more mental than anything.
I hope next time to climb all three original pitches and tick that .9+ R 2nd pitch! |
By Clay Zamperini
From: Tarzana, CA
Jul 2, 2011
| An unfortunate fellow takes a big whipper on the traverse of the second pitch: |
By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Feb 24, 2012
rating: 5.9 R
| Led pitch 2 the other day, one continuous push starting with Son of Tidrick's and ending at the Place in the Sun anchor. The above description lists 3 bolts on pitch 2 of Tidrick's, the old Soft Touch guide shows 2 pins. All I saw was one modern bolt 20' or so above the SoT anchor and that was it! Pretty freakin' scary leading that traverse over to the PitS anchor.... |
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