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YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Geir Hundal, Clay Mansfield
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 449
Submitted By: Geir on Sep 22, 2013
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Clay and Geir on the FA, photo by EFR


This is a wild and airy variation linking the EFR classic Reef Break to Reefer Madness. Clay spotted this crazy-looking traverse 200' off the deck and pointed it out to me. We decided to establish a new route that included the traverse as it looked so appealing.

Our first attempt to reach the traverse was via an old EFR project about 30 feet right of Reef Break. It became apparent this route was not going to take us to the start of the traverse, so Eric invited us to establish the traverse as a variation to Reef Break instead.

On the FA we were really psyched to find that the pitch went at a reasonable grade and was as exposed as it looked from the ground. With a bit more cleaning it will be a great variation to Eric's route.


Climb the first two pitches of Reef Break. From here traverse up and right all the way to the last pitch of Reefer Madness (just left of the huge roof). Belay here or continue another 30' right (5.7) to a better belay stance and easier climbing to the top.


Singles to blue camalot, two bolts.

Photos of Tideways Slideshow Add Photo
Another picture of the FA courtesy of EFR.
Another picture of the FA courtesy of EFR.
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By 1Eric Rhicard
Sep 23, 2013

That's a good name!