Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Aegir
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
20th Century Flake 
21st Century Finger Crack 
Blockbuster Ballet 
Coriolis 
Direct Madness 
Doubt 
Elacca Drug 
Gom Gabbar 
Reef Break 
Reefer Madness + Reefer Direct 
Rogue Planet 
Thread Lightly 
Tideways 

Tideways 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Geir Hundal, Clay Mansfield
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 449
Submitted By: Geir on Sep 22, 2013
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Clay and Geir on the FA, photo by EFR

Description 

This is a wild and airy variation linking the EFR classic Reef Break to Reefer Madness. Clay spotted this crazy-looking traverse 200' off the deck and pointed it out to me. We decided to establish a new route that included the traverse as it looked so appealing.

Our first attempt to reach the traverse was via an old EFR project about 30 feet right of Reef Break. It became apparent this route was not going to take us to the start of the traverse, so Eric invited us to establish the traverse as a variation to Reef Break instead.

On the FA we were really psyched to find that the pitch went at a reasonable grade and was as exposed as it looked from the ground. With a bit more cleaning it will be a great variation to Eric's route.


Location 

Climb the first two pitches of Reef Break. From here traverse up and right all the way to the last pitch of Reefer Madness (just left of the huge roof). Belay here or continue another 30' right (5.7) to a better belay stance and easier climbing to the top.


Protection 

Singles to blue camalot, two bolts.



Photos of Tideways Slideshow Add Photo
Another picture of the FA courtesy of EFR.
Another picture of the FA courtesy of EFR.
Comments on Tideways Add Comment
Show which comments
By 1Eric Rhicard
Sep 23, 2013

That's a good name!