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Routes in Brean Down
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A Heavy Read S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Bikini Atoll S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Brean Dream S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Bullworker S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Chepito S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Chulilla S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Coral Sea S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Do you get vouchers with this? S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Guilt Edge, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Kraken S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Pearl Harbour S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Prisoner of Conscience S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Roof of Inequity, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Tide Rising S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | F Haden, G Jenxin, E Heslam, 23rd April 1995 |
| Page Views: | 534 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Nick Russell on Nov 14, 2013 |
| Admins: | Chris Owen, Euan Cameron |
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Description
Climb an easy wall to a high first bolt and rest at about 5m (stick-clip unnecessary, the climbing is easy and positive). Warm-up over, continue up into the power-endurance crux sequence.
Move up from a good right hand sidepull to various crappy holds for the left, then make a big move to a good right hand. Clip bolt 3 high from here, move up to gain a left hand pinch and rock up to gain a sidepull/undercling right hand. A powerful crossover gains a good left hand above the bulge, from which a technical sequence gets you established at a good jug and bolt 5. Final easy moves get to the lower-off on the left, shared with Pearl Harbour.
An alternative is to move rightwards from bolt 4 or 5 to an independent lower-off, which doesn't add to the difficulty.
Move up from a good right hand sidepull to various crappy holds for the left, then make a big move to a good right hand. Clip bolt 3 high from here, move up to gain a left hand pinch and rock up to gain a sidepull/undercling right hand. A powerful crossover gains a good left hand above the bulge, from which a technical sequence gets you established at a good jug and bolt 5. Final easy moves get to the lower-off on the left, shared with Pearl Harbour.
An alternative is to move rightwards from bolt 4 or 5 to an independent lower-off, which doesn't add to the difficulty.
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