Type: Sport, 60 ft (18 m)
FA: G. & L. Collum
Page Views: 5,304 total · 25/month
Shared By: Tony B on Dec 7, 2006
Admins: Brian Boyd, Tao Techakanon

You & This Route


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Warning Access Issue: Warning! Stainless steel bolts are suspect near the coast! DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Step off of the Freedom Bar porch and head slightly right (facing the wall) past the group of huge stalactites to a spot in the wall with a very steep series of bulges separated by horizontals and groups of pockets. Start at a left-facing "flake" of stone and head up and consistently left to a set of anchors.

Most super-steep routes at this grade in the area are all about the pump factor and don't really have any hard moves. I jumped on this route expecting a pumpy endurance issue and good holds. While this was right for the most part, there are a few hard moves and not all of the holds are jugs. Expecting a rest on jugs at the horizontals near the roof's end was a mistake.

This is a great route and is quite steep at any grade. Climb up and clip a bolt then head out the series of steep moves quickly, and don't count on recovering at any given place--just keep going!

Location Suggest change

If facing the cliff, this route is just down and right from the porch of the Freedom Bar, right of the huge tufas hanging almost onto the roof of the bar. The big bulge is climbed pretty directly on pockets and horizontals past bolts to an anchor up above.

Protection Suggest change

A handful of draws is all that is needed. The roof is big enough that long runners don't really make a difference. I understand that this route has been rebolted with titanium hardware to replace the sketchy steel bolts.

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