Me heading out on the ridiculously exposed third p...
Get ready for some insane exposure! Three pretty short pitches (belays were added wherever there were stances or ledges) of solid climbing. Pitches one and two could probably be combined but linking two and three would result in hideous rope drag.
Pitch 1: The tricky climbing starts right away and the whole pitch is pretty stiff. The holds are inobvious. You can get a knee bar in under the micro roof. Belay at a small ledge. 40' 5.10c, 5 bolts to chains.
Pitch 2: Not quite as technically difficult as the first pitch but more sustained. 60' 5.10c, 8 (?) bolts to chains.
Pitch 3: The money pitch. Absolutely amazing climbing. Head up and right from the belay on good jugs and enjoy the gobsmacking exposure. 70' 5.10b. 8 (?) bolts to chains.
Descent: This is a bit tricky. You could rap with two ropes from the top of three to the top of one or maybe even to the ground. But the third pitch is too steep and traversing to easily just rappel down with one rope. This is what we did: Thread the rope through the anchors on top of pitch 3 and lower one climber down. He should probably clip some bolts on the way down. He can make it down to the top of the second pitch. Then the second person can make a double-strand rappel. The first guy can pull the second guy in to the top of the second pitch (the second guy cleans the draws as he rappels). One single rope rappel (with a 60m rope) can just barely make it to the ground from the top of pitch 2.
The route starts at the head of the approach gully. The bolts are obvious.
8 or 9 draws (more if you're linking) plus slings or whatever for the anchors.
I think this is now one of my favorite climbs in the canyon. Each pitch is really pretty sustained and exciting and the third pitch is just so freaking cool! I was whooping and hollering the whole time I was climbing it. Be confident with your 5.10s or else you're going to pee your pants on this thing...
The approach up the gully from the main Galaxy trail really really sucks. It's steep and pretty loose. We're going to put in a belay bolt and maybe fix a rope up the gully. Also, most of the loose rock is gone on the route but in a couple spots it ended up climbing different than expected and so some of the holds are dirty. A bolt or two probably need to be moved as well. Overall, this is a really, really fun adventure climb and that third pitch is something I'll remember for a long time. Oh, and bring a helmet! (And earn some extra karma points by taking a brush up there with you, too.)
Without a doubt, an outstanding classic!!! One of the best lines in the whole Galaxy area and Canyon for that matter. Often the FA mentality gets in the way when putting up new lines and the quality factor gets blurred but not with this one. Every pitch keeps on coming and stays tricky and tough all the way to the anchor Just when you think it is over, there always seems to be one more little challenge (including the very last couple moves) While all the pitches are neat and high quality, pitch 3 is spectacular! A nifty traverse that will punish you if you pull up too fast (stay low and enjoy the air under your feet) but there are several rests to stop and recover and take in the amazing view!
While the pitches are short, they are a good idea for rope drag.
We plan to put in one more cleaning day to clean off some dirt and loose stuff. A different rap anchor will be added in a more direct line above the last pitch pretty soon.
Really nice route, the first three pitches were still quite dirty with loose rock here and there, but the climbing was fun. Thought the 2nd pitch was 10a, but the other two to be the grade given. Great climb, I agree most RC climbers should get on it!! :)
The approach up the gully was absolutely horrendous and would be nice if more work went into it as well as a landing/staging area. You might have to get a little creative with the trail instead of just a rope hand-line going down the gully. Definitely worth the effort since it could become very popular in the near future.
P.S. I did all three pitches separately instead of combining any of the pitches and was glad I did. Seemed like combining any of the pitches would result in bad rope drag.
Good job on the bolting especially on the 1st and 3rd pitches. Very creative and created a more unique line.
Have you guys thought of going straight up the steep face on the last pitch? Looks like it could be quite the beauty!